Everett, Wash.
Published: Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Get fresh

More vintners take root in Western Washington

By Sarah Jackson / Herald Writer

 Washington's wine industry is big and, in case you haven't noticed, it's getting a lot bigger.

Wineries are popping up all over Western Washington too, complete with tasting rooms, gift shops and rural scenery to boot, all while selling wines made from grapes from Eastern Washington, where most of the state's wine grapes are grown.

But did you know you can buy wine made from grapes grown much closer to home?

Madeleine Angevine. Siegerrebe. Muller Thurgau.

Do those names mean anything to you? If not, they likely will soon.

All three are white grapes poised to become the rock stars of the relatively unknown Puget Sound Appellation, also called an AVA or American Viticultural Area, a designation that legally defines the wines grown in the soils and climate of the Puget Sound region.

If you're searching for a way to support local farmers as part of the growing buy-local, eat-local movement, why not start with wine?

The Puget Sound Wine Growers Association has made it easy by featuring member wineries on its Web site, www.pswg.org. Members - 12 and counting - sell at least some wine made with locally grown grapes.

While some wineries grow only ornamental grapes to make the winery experience seem more authentic, vintners including Greg and Elizabeth Osenbach, who own Whidbey Island Winery near Langley, are the real thing.

They make half their wine from grapes they started planting in 1986, mostly Madeleine Angevine and siegerrebe, on seven acres on Whidbey Island.

Now, 20 years and 16 vintages later, their grapes are finding a following as consumers gain wine savvy and an affection for fine dining.

"People are much more willing and even excited to try things that are different," Greg Osenbach said. "The siegerrebe, in particular, has just taken off this year and last year, and the Madeleine Angevine, too. It's just a great food wine. Finally, people are realizing it."

Though the wines don't have the big, punchy flavor of a chardonnay, they aren't necessarily sweet, either.

They're actually more similar to dry whites made in France's wine-producing Loire Valley, which has a climate similar to the Puget Sound region.

"Our Madeleine Angevine is bone dry, very crisp," Osenbach said. "Our climate produces wines that are delicate, aromatic, very refreshing, excellent food wines."

Wine Enthusiast gave both the winery's latest vintages of Madeleine Angevine (2003) and siegerrebe (2004) ratings of 88 and called them both best buys for their under-$15 price tags.

Puget Sound's soils give local wines special qualities no other region in the United States can imitate, said Brent Charnley, president of the Puget Sound Wine Grocers Association, who also grows Madeleine Angevine and siegerrebe at his Lopez Island Vineyards.

"I think our crisp whites match our seafood and shellfish better than the whites of California and Eastern Washington because our acids are higher and there's just a better match of delicacy of flavor to the delicacy of the food," Charnley said. "A region's wines often match its native foods."

Kevin Nasr, who owns Wicked Cellars in Everett, said Puget Sound wines aren't a huge chunk of his wine business, but he believes they have a promising future as adventurous wine consumers continue to look for new experiences.

"People are always wanting to venture out and try something new," he said, adding that he sells a lot of Whidbey Island Winery's Island White, a blend of Puget Sound Madeleine Angevine grapes and Madeleine Sylvaner grapes.

Red wine lovers, there's something in this for you, too.

Thanks to continuing work by Washington State University's Research and Extension office in Mount Vernon, more Washington-friendly reds are already in the ground.

In five years, look for grapes such as Agria, Regent, Dornfelder and St. Laurent, all reds geared toward the mild local climate.

If that's too long for you to wait, keep an eye out for Western Washington-grown pinot noir from longtime vintners such as Mount Baker Vineyards, Bainbridge Island Winery and, increasingly, others as growing techniques improve.

"That's what I think a lot of people are most excited about," Osenbach said. "There are some reds that are doing well here. You'll start to see some pretty darn tasty pinot noir coming out of Puget Sound."

Reporter Sarah Jackson: 425-339-3037 or sjackson@heraldnet.com.

Resources

The Puget Sound Wine Growers Association has links to wineries in Western Washington where grapes are grown on-site, including Whidbey Island Winery. See www.pswg.org.

The Washington Wine Commission offers free maps of the state's wineries and wine regions. See www.washingtonwine.org or call 206-667-9463, ext. 2000.

Wines Northwest offers a guide to visiting the Puget Sound region's wineries as well as a guide to winter wine touring. Go to www.winesnw.com/taste_of_puget_sound.htm.

Wine Press Northwest features a Northwest wine of the week and other local wine resources. See www. winepressnw.com.

Three whites to watch



Madeleine Angevine (MAD-ell-enne AN-jeh-vine) is a lesser-known French grape that has been grown successfully for wine in the Puget Sound region for more than 25 years. Dry, crisp wines made with this grape typically feature citrus and fruit flavors and a floral aroma that pairs well with oysters, fish, chicken and vegetable dishes. Like sauvignon blanc, it can even be paired with a salad course. If the pronunciation challenge makes you nervous, call it by its unofficial nickname, "Mad Angie."

Siegerrebe (see-ga-RAY-buh) is a cross between Madeleine Angevine and Gewurztraminer. It is typically used to make dry or semi-dry dinner wine with spicy and grapefruit flavors and a floral aroma. Like Gewurztraminer, it pairs well with spicy Asian, Indian or Mexican foods as well as seafood, such as steamed crab or even fish and chips.

Muller-Thurgau (MEW-luhr TOOR-gow) is the most widely planted grape in Germany. It can taste similar to a light and fruity riesling or fume blanc when grown in the Puget Sound climate. It's great for sipping on a hot summer day or as a match for a variety of seafood dishes.

Find it

Look for Whidbey Island Winery wines at these local stores:

Everett: Wicked Cellars, Sno-Isle Natural Foods Co-op

Snohomish: Evergreen Cellars, Top Foods

Marysville: Haggen

Lake Stevens: Haggen

Arlington: Haggen

Stanwood: QFC, Haggen

Mill Creek: Central Market, QFC, Fred Meyer

Lynnwood: Food Emporium

Oak Harbor: Albertsons

Langley: Whidbey Island Winery
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