Food & Wine

<< Previous   of   Next >>   ADVERTISEMENT   CONTACT THE HERALD Melanie Munk, Features Editor munk@heraldnet.com   Published: Wednesday, July 9, 2008 Seeker of quince jam recipe finds success If happiness is the how-to for a batch of quince jam, Dean Tuininga ought to be in hog heaven very shortly. He recently told us of his childhood memories of his late mother's wonderful quince jam and said he would so greatly appreciate it if anybody could share a recipe for "this very uniquely flavored jam.'' L. Rachel Sacks-Bowen of Everett is the first to break ground on this subject, telling us, "My friend Jenny Bowen and I are always cooking up something fun and different. We have encouraged all of our children to join in the fun and expand on recipes we have inherited or created. "I was sure Jenny, who is an excellent baker and jam expert, had a recipe for quince jam. "When I called her and realized it was kumquat marmalade that she makes (and generously shares) every year, it sent us both on a quest to find quince for the man who touched our hearts in the June 27 Forum. "Here's a recipe we found (at greekfood.about.com) that we will be making as soon as the fruit is in season! "Dean will be pleased to know that we are careful to catalogue our recipes as we, too, have suffered the loss of a loved chef and wondered 'how'd she do that?''' Next, we hear from Snohomish jam-rememberer Selma McNamara, "Regarding Dean Tuininga's request for a quince jam recipe, my mom also made quince jam because my dad liked his mom's jam. After some experimenting, one day his mother almost burned it, and that was what he remembered. "Anyway, I was a lot younger then than I am now, but it was just like making any jam -- peel and cut up the quince, add an equal amount of sugar, and then cook it until you get jam. I don't think my mom put lemon juice in it, like some books suggest. "This was also in the days before the boxed pectin stuff, so we just had to wait until it was cooked enough to be ready for jam.'' Selma winds up, "I planted a quince tree several years ago, just so I could have a supply of quince to make jam with!'' Apparently, as Selma's family jam story indicates, it's really, really easy to burn this jam, because Rachel's recipe makes mention of that fact, too, and even tells you what to do should that happen. Now for the recipe, which is all natural, made without additives or preservatives. Said to be perfect for toast, it's a light jam that's also a good filling for croissants as well as a traditional Greek condiment that works well with lamb and pork roasts. If you want, save the liquid from the first boil to make jelly. QUINCE JAM 41/2 pounds quince 13/4 pounds sugar (just under 4 cups) Water 1 tablespoon lemon juice Clean the quince the way you would an apple, peeling and removing the seeds. Cut into small chunks and put into a bowl of water while preparing the fruit. (Quince will turn dark if not covered with water.) Drain and transfer to a pot with water just to the top of the quince. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 30 minutes, turn off heat, and leave the pot on the stove for 30 minutes. Drain off liquid into another pot to make quince jelly or discard. Place the cooked fruit in the bowl of a food processor with 4 tablespoons water and pulp for 8 seconds. The consistency should be similar to chunky applesauce. Transfer to a large saucepan, add sugar and 1 cup water and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon to prevent sticking and browning (see note). Reduce heat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring frequently, until the jam melds, excess liquid cooks off, and the jam drops from a spoon in chunks. Add lemon juice, stir for 5 minutes, and remove from heat. Ladle immediately into hot half-pint jars, filling to within 1/8-inch of tops. Wipe jar rims and threads. Cover with two-piece lids. Screw bands tightly. Place jars on elevated rack in canner half-full of simmering water. Lower rack into canner. (Water must cover jars by 1 to 2 inches. Add boiling water, if necessary.) Cover; bring water to gentle boil. Process 10 minutes. Remove jars and place upright on a towel to cool completely. After jars cool, check seals by pressing middles of lids with finger. If lids spring back, lids are not sealed and refrigeration is necessary. Makes about 3 to 4 cups. Note: If the jam starts sticking to the pan and browning, remove from heat immediately and pour into a bowl. Use a spoon to remove brown parts, transfer to a clean pot and continue to cook. The next Forum will appear in Friday's Time Out section.

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