At Terracotta Red, it's all about the Belly Love

How could you not order something called Dylan Pork Belly Love?

And then, once having enjoyed the spiced-rubbed and oven-roasted chunks of pork belly served on a mound of lightly pickled cucumber and greens, how do you resist it on your next visit?

You don't. At least my wife and I didn't on two recent visits to Terracotta Red Modern Asian Bistro & Lounge in downtown Everett.

Terracotta, which opened in early August in a renovated 1890s-era building on the east end of Hewitt Avenue, is a family enterprise led by patriarch and wok chef Mu Yang Ma, said his daughter-in-law and restaurant manager Allisa Hui. Ma emigrated from China in 1983, working in restaurants first in Boston and later in the Seattle area. Ma for the last 15 years was manager of a Bonney Lake restaurant, Hui said.

Now he has his own restaurant with a kitchen led by Chef Jimmy Liang, whose background includes an internship at The Herbfarm in Woodinville and time at Serafina in Seattle.

Liang's emphasis, Hui said, is on fresh locally grown produce, seafood and free-range meats used in "Asian fusion" recipes.

Terracotta offers a long list of small and large plates, in addition to soups, salads and rice and noodle dishes, all served family-style, encouraging everyone to share some of everything. Ordering a small plate and a large plate for each person in a party isn't a bad idea, and isn't unreasonable. Most small plates run between $8 and $10, and large plates range from $12 to $23 for the Terra Red Duck.

Terracotta's menu describes it as the house's signature duck dish: slices of duck served on a roasted garlic potato cake and wilted greens. Our duck was actually served on a bed of greens and finely hashed potatoes and garlic. It wasn't what we expected, but the moist smoky duck breast distracted us.

From the small plates we chose Chicken Lettuce Wraps, which would delight kids and adults. Spoonfuls of diced chicken, wood ear mushrooms, water chestnuts and spiced tofu can be dolloped into cold, crisp leaves of iceberg lettuce.

On a previous visit with a group of friends, we enjoyed Indonesian Corn Fritters, Malay Style Samosas and the Pork Belly Love. Here, I feel I must defend my adoration for pork belly, specifically Terracotta's pork belly, which is also featured in a large plate.

Yes, it's a hunk of pork fat. But if I must limit my intake of fat, I will forego ever eating bacon again on Sunday mornings if I am allowed this one vice. My wife's method: Wrap a ribbon of vinegary cucumber around the pork and pop it into your mouth; at once you have the crisp sharpness of the cucumber and the luscious cushion of pork.

Among the large plates we chose in the earlier visit, we enjoyed the Crispy Drunken Chicken, tossed in a wok with yuzu, a grapefruitlike fruit, and yu-choy, a rapelike green; and Crispy Walnut Prawns, served with a honey peach sauce.

On both visits, an order of Curry Red was a favorite of all. A homemade curry sauce smothers slices of pork and kabocha squash and peanuts. I know people who like to brag about enjoying 5-star heat in their curries and never understood why. Flavor and heat are nicely balanced in the Curry Red.

The menu selection is ample, and Hui said Terracotta intends to adapt its menu with the seasons, adding and subtracting according to what's available from area farms.

Terracotta offers a full bar and a small comfortable lounge. Its wine list includes a good selection of Northwest and California wines. But don't neglect the tea list. Several imported green, oolong and black teas are served in clear glass pots. As with wine, Hui said, you can select teas to complement your meal choices.

Dessert isn't a common offering at Asian restaurants, but don't skip it here. We've tried the Coconut Creme Caramel and the Banana Bread Pudding, the latter served in a puddle of caramel sauce and melting ice cream, proof that dessert needn't involve chocolate to satisfy.

On our next visit's to-do list: Chinese doughnuts with a passion fruit curl. Now, that's Belly Love.



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