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Published: Saturday, May 2, 2009

Surprising Skamania: Here's how to explore the Columbia Gorge from another angle

  • Views of the Columbia River Gorge from Washington's scenic Highway 14 can be stunning on a clear day.

    Sarah Jackson / The Herald

    Views of the Columbia River Gorge from Washington's scenic Highway 14 can be stunning on a clear day.

  • The Gorge Room at Skamania Lodge affords views of the Columbia River and the mountains of Oregon beyond it.

    Skamania Lodge

    The Gorge Room at Skamania Lodge affords views of the Columbia River and the mountains of Oregon beyond it.

The Columbia River Gorge is Washington's underappreciated Grand Canyon.

This natural wonder, carved by mighty Columbia River and Ice Age floods, is 80 miles long and, in some places, 4,000 feet deep.

It's home to The Gorge Amphitheatre, a massive concert venue in George just off I-90. It's also the site of 620-foot Multnomah Falls, east of Portland, Ore.

This spring and summer, however, we suggest you explore this beauty from a lesser known vantage point: Skamania County.

If you're thinking, "Um, where?", Skamania -- a word derived from the Chinook for "swift water" -- might be just the place to book your next long weekend or, perhaps, a longer summer vacation.

This surprisingly gorgeous slice of southwestern Washington east of Vancouver sits in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area.

Though known as a kiteboarding mecca, the county also offers a wealth of other activities and sights, plus cushy lodging and excellent eats to enjoy along the way.

You don't even have to pass through the metropolis of Portland to get there.

In fact, you shouldn't.

While it's possible to explore the Gorge from the Oregon side of the river following Interstate 84, you'll find more picture-postcard views on the Washington side on small, slow and scenic Highway 14.

Part of the Lewis and Clark Trail Scenic Byway, curvaceous Highway 14 winds around -- and up and down -- bluffs along the river.

It passes through 4,650-acre Beacon Rock State Park, which draws its name from an 848-foot monolith with a 1-mile trail to its summit.

Heading east on 14, you'll also pass the Bonneville Locks and Dam, which harnesses the power of the Columbia and gives native salmon and steelhead a leg up on their journey upstream to spawn (Thank you, fish ladders).

Nearby you'll find Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa, which allows day use of its spa, pool and hot tub facilities.

Stevenson, a good central home base for exploring the region, also sits on Highway 14.

This county seat, with a population of 1,440, has enjoyed a recent renaissance.

Once a logging town, now a tourist destination, Stevenson features gift, antiques and coffee shops, galleries, parks and restaurants, including the Walking Man Brewing pub, serving award-winning beers. Lodging options range from basic Econo Lodge to the top-notch Skamania Lodge just outside town.

Built in 1993, the lodge is a sister property to Suncadia Resort in Cle Elum and Sunriver Resort in Oregon.

Its 254 guest rooms and suites are nestled snugly in the woods with views of the nearby mountains, forests and the Columbia River, plus an 18-hole golf course, spa, pool and multiple hot tubs and saunas.

The Cascade Room, the lodge's largest dining venue, features Northwest-inspired cuisine and, on Sundays, a sprawling and elegant champagne brunch.

Hint: Don't miss the croissant French toast and the bacon-bit maple syrup at the griddle bar. If you want to go the healthy route, try the house-made multigrain hot cereal.

After settling into your lodging, what should you do?

Get your bearings at Columbia Gorge Interpretive Center Museum, just a stone's throw from the lodge. Exhibits showcase American Indian life and the adventures of Lewis and Clark, plus the world's largest rosary collection.

Next it's time to explore, which is easy to do around here.

Lakes, rivers and parks abound for playing outside with opportunities to hike, rock climb, bike, fish and camp. Numerous beaches and boat launches allow you to get in touch with the main attraction, the Columbia River.

If you're interested in getting on the river without getting wet, cross at the Bridge of the Gods, an easy two miles west of Stevenson, and drive another mile to the marine park in Cascade Locks, Ore., where the Columbia Gorge Sternwheeler takes off for riverboat tours year-round.

Scenic drives abound throughout the region, too.

If you have a designated driver, you can easily combine scenic driving with wine touring, starting with White Salmon Vineyard and other wineries in Underwood-White Salmon area about 20 miles east of Stevenson on Highway 14.

The Columbia Gorge appellation straddles the river and includes more than 30 wineries in Washington and Oregon. Once finished in Underwood, pop across the Hood River Bridge to numerous tasting rooms on the Oregon side of the Gorge.

If you prefer to let the excitement come to you, time your visit with one of the many events in Stevenson, including the Brews, Blues & BBQs festival on June 27, the Bridge of the Gods Kiteboarding Festival July 10 to 12, or the Columbia Gorge Bluegrass Festival July 23 to 26.

No matter what you do, you'll at least know a bit more about Skamania County.

Sarah Jackson: 425-339-3037, sjackson@heraldnet.com



If you go

Lodging

Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa www.bonnevilleresort.com 866-459-1678

Columbia Gorge Riverside Lodge www.cgriversidelodge.com 509-427-5650

Skamania Lodge www.skamania.com 509-427-7700

Tourism

Bonneville Lock and Dam 541-374-8820

Columbia Gorge Interpretive Center Museum www.columbiagorge.org/ 800-991-2338

Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.skamania.org www.cityofstevenson.com 800-989-9178

Wine

Columbia Gorge Winegrowers www.columbiagorgewine.com 866-413-9463

Cruises

The Portland Spirit Co. www.portlandspirit.com 800-224-3901

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