Enjoy the San Juan Islands on a bike

Here’s a not-so-secret way to skip to the front of long lines at the Anacortes ferry landing and speed your trip to the San Juan Islands:

Park the car at the dock and bike aboard.

“The small population and rural roads through farmland and along the shoreline ensure a safe and scenic experience,” said Robin Jacobson, a spokeswoman for the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau. “There are many spots in the roads to pull out and rest, and to view interesting natural landmarks.”

Not to mention the chance to glimpse a passing orca pod, mountain views in almost every direction and rest stops where you can find delicious, homemade foods.

You don’t have to be Lance Armstrong to bike in the San Juans. There are plenty of routes for people of all abilities and lots of rental bikes, if you fly or don’t have a bike at home.

The Washington State Ferries last year waived parking fees at its lots in Anacortes for the July Fourth holiday weekend. There’s no word yet if the offer will be repeated, but even with parking costs, cycling the San Juan Islands is affordable and a great way to visit.

Of all the islands, San Juan and Lopez lend themselves to the best cycling. Orcas Island is a bit too large and mountainous; Shaw is not quite big enough.

A friend and I went last summer, and we set up base at the Bird Rock Hotel in Friday Harbor. The ferry unloads in town, a short walk with bikes and luggage to plenty of inns.

We chose to ride counterclockwise around San Juan Island, about a 30-mile loop.

It’s a rolling 10 miles north to Roche Harbor, the island’s other “big” town, and a good lunch spot.

From there, we headed west toward Lime Kiln Point Park. Along the way, we refueled at the States Inn and Ranch, munching on homemade strawberry turnovers.

We worked off the treats as we rode along shaded streets and passed homes that cling to the rocky coastline.

Lime Kiln Point Park, aka Whale Watching Park, is said to be the best place to catch a glimpse of orca pods swimming by.

The view is lovely, but we missed out on the opportunity to declare, “Thar she blows!”

We were too tired to take the detour to Cattle Point. Instead we opted to head directly back to Friday Harbor to scout out dinner.

A tip from a local helped us find the Backdoor Kitchen, a gourmet’s delight hidden behind a parking lot right in town. The food was cosmopolitan, while the setting and service was island friendly and relaxed.

Rested, we hopped an early ferry the next morning for the short trip to Lopez Island.

Lopez is said to be the flattest of the islands, but don’t expect a level ride. There are long, steep hills, including one right off the ferry.

Like San Juan Island, it’s about a 30-mile loop around the island, but there are plenty of ways to add or eliminate miles.

A short ride takes you to the village. There you’ll find Holly B’s Bakery, a local favorite for cinnamon rolls, and Vita’s, a small gourmet deli, good choices for picnic fare.

From there, you can ride south along Fisherman Bay, by the airport and along Shark Reef Road. Watch for the left onto Burt Road and enjoy the scenery past bucolic pastures with long, sloping views to the water.

At the Southend Deli, you have a choice to either ride south to picnic tables at Agate Beach, or continue east and find Watmough Bay Preserve. There’s a dramatic beach there at the bottom of a steep dirt road. Ask the locals for directions to the trailhead that leads to the beach.

To return to the ferry dock, it’s hard to avoid cycling along Center Road, the busiest on the island. We turned east on School Road and explored the more scenic farmlands and the waterfront cottages of Swifts Bay before island-hopping back to Friday Harbor.

Another day on the itinerary and I likely would have checked out the west and less hilly side of Orcas Island. For this trip, we packed up, slid past the long line of cars waiting to board a return ferry, and enjoyed the boat ride back to Anacortes.

Reporter Jackson Holtz: 425-339-3437, jholtz@heraldnet.com.