So long, Wong’s … you’re going to be hard to replace

  • By Kristi O’Harran Special to The Herald
  • Wednesday, September 11, 2013 5:31pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

Saying farewell to perfecto barbecued pork noodles is as painful as losing Mr. Salty pretzels. Remember when they stopped selling Mr. Salty, who wore a jaunty sailor suit on the blue box?

I still mourn.

My latest sorrow is due to the September closure of Wong’s China Kitchen in Lynnwood. Some folks drive past it, in snootymobiles, on the way to Red Lobster. They think Wong’s, at 43rd and 196th Street SW, looks rundown so they thumb their noses.

What a missed opportunity. Sure, we avoided using the Wong’s restrooms, but to dine on delish Chinese food was worth the hand sanitizer.

The owners are retiring at the of September after more than 35 years at this location. Rumor has it the building will become a pizza place. Oh, the horror. I don’t eat pizza. I eat barbecued pork noodles and have for 60 years.

Picture a bowl of spaghetti noodles in a mild broth. It comes with little slices of barbecued pork and green onions on top. For ultra culinary panche, some restaurants crown the dish with half a hardboiled egg.

When I order, I always ask them to hold the onions. Green is not on my white palate that includes bread, sour cream, potatoes, cottage cheese, soda crackers and mayonnaise. See how thin I am?

On Friday and Saturday nights, one might think Wong’s is selling cocaine with a side of heroin. Cars dart in and out, folks dash inside, but it isn’t a crack house. Wong’s is the king of take-out orders. We pull in on weekends, buzz the bar where our friend Eddie hangs out, pay for yummies and hurry home to see how fast we can slam food into a bowl.

I’ll bet you half of a Social Security check that you don’t eat at your neighborhood Chinese joint. You drive across town to get the best grub. That’s the way it is with Chinese. It’s worth the drive to get just what you want.

We’ve driven hither and yon to try other Chinese restaurants. My friends alert me to potential pork noodle spots. They always feature booths with overhead hanging lanterns and ladies in the lounge wearing more rouge and red lipstick than Vargas girls.

We go out to eat in a group because my husband, Chuck, needs someone to share a family-style Chinese meal, with gross stuff like chow mein. Imagine his existence, living with a wife who eats just seven things. He loves Mexican, but few places cook me a proper plain hamburger to serve with his fajita.

Four of us were recently at a Blazin’ Onion. The handsome frat boy waiter enthusiastically approached our table to take our order, without a pencil and pad.

“You’re going to need paper,” I instructed, knowing I was about to special order as usual, holding this, siding that, and cooking everything charred. Friends invite us to barbecues, with the caveat that they will start grilling my burger the day before.

I’ll be driving to China Doll in Everett for my pork noodle fix after September. They do it right. I might even be at China Doll on holidays. Chinese places are where to be on Christmas Eve to avoid family drama and ham.

My crowd of friends knows there is always a big table for us in the back room at Wong’s on New Year’s Eve. You don’t need to make a reservation or wear a sequined tank top. Wong’s is welcoming seven days a week with hot tea and fortune cookies.

When I was a columnist at The Herald, I did a grilled cheese taste test, sampling orders with fries and chocolate shakes in four restaurants around Snohomish County. I proclaimed Denny’s served the primo trio.

Some folks seemed to appreciate my grub advice, except one couple in Granite Falls. When I wrote that a now-closed North Everett drive-in called Hilltop served the best bacon cheeseburger in town, the easterly pair drove straight over the trestle to gobble my favorite buns.

Boy, did I get a nasty voicemail. It was the worst burger they ever ate, they said in a rude tone.

How picky can you get?

Kristi O’Harran is a former longtime Herald writer, now retired, who graces us with one of her columns when the mood strikes.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Life

Lily Gladstone poses at the premiere of the Hulu miniseries "Under the Bridge" at the DGA Theatre, Monday, April 15, 2024, in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)
Mountlake Terrace’s Lily Gladstone plays cop in Hulu’s ‘Under the Bridge’

The true-crime drama started streaming Wednesday. It’s Gladstone’s first part since her star turn in “Killers of the Flower Moon.”

A giant Bigfoot creation made by Terry Carrigan, 60, at his home-based Skywater Studios on Sunday, April 14, 2024 in Monroe, Washington. (Annie Barker / The Herald)
The 1,500-pound Sasquatch: Bigfoot comes to life in woods near Monroe

A possibly larger-than-life sculpture, created by Terry Carrigan of Skywater Studios, will be featured at this weekend’s “Oddmall” expo.

Craig Chambers takes orders while working behind the bar at Obsidian Beer Hall on Friday, April 12, 2024, in downtown Everett, Washington. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)
Obsidian Beer Hall takes over former Toggle’s space in downtown Everett

Beyond beer, the Black-owned taphouse boasts a chill vibe with plush sofas, art on the walls and hip-hop on the speakers.

Lewis the cat weaves his way through a row of participants during Kitten Yoga at the Everett Animal Shelter on Saturday, April 13, 2024, in Everett, Washington. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)
Downward cat? At kitten yoga in Everett, it’s all paw-sitive vibes

It wasn’t a stretch for furry felines to distract participants. Some cats left with new families — including a reporter.

The Ford Maverick has seating for five passengers. Its cargo bed is 4.5 feet long. (Photo provided by Ford)
2024 Ford Maverick compact pickup undergoes a switch

The previous standard engine is now optional. The previous optional engine is now standard.

Dalton Dover performs during the 2023 CMA Fest on Friday, June 9, 2023, at the Spotify House in Nashville, Tenn. (Photo by Amy Harris/Invision/AP)
Music, theater and more: What’s happening in Snohomish County

The Red Hot Chili Pipers come to Edmonds, and country artist Dalton Dover performs Friday as part of the Everett Stampede.

2024 Genesis G70 Sport Prestige RWD (Photo provided by Genesis)
Genesis Unveils 2024 G70 Sports Prestige Sedan

Combining power, luxury, and innovation, Genesis raises the bar yet again with enhanced performance and cutting-edge features in its latest model.

wisteria flower in Japan
Give your garden a whole new dimension with climbing plants

From clematis and jasmine to wisteria and honeysuckle, let any of these vine varieties creep into your heart – and garden.

Lynnwood
New Jersey company acquires Lynnwood Land Rover dealership

Land Rover Seattle, now Land Rover Lynnwood, has been purchased by Holman, a 100-year-old company.

Great Plant Pick: Dark Beauty Epimedium

What: New foliage on epimedium grandiflorum Dark Beauty, also known as Fairy… Continue reading

While not an Alberto, Diego or Bruno, this table is in a ‘Giacometti style’

Works by the Giacometti brothers are both valuable and influential. Other artists’ work is often said to be in their style.

Suomenlinna
Soul sisters Helsinki and Tallinn are pearls of the Baltic

While they have their own stories to tell, these cities share a common heritage of Swedish and Russian influences.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.