Primitivo, Zinfandel’s roots go back 8,000 years

Evidence would indicate that Croatia could be the cradle of wine grapes, with cultivation of “vitis vinifera” dating back some 8,000 years. Perhaps Croatia’s greatest contribution to wines we enjoy today is Zinfandel.

Or is it Primitivo? There is some question about the difference between the two red grapes.

In fact, experts now believe Zinfandel and Primitivo are clones of an obscure Croatian grape called Crljenak Kastelanski. In the vineyard, Zin and Primitivo are not identical, and our federal government recognizes them as separate varieties.

On wine shop shelves, consumers now will find Washington wines made from both Zinfandel and Primitivo, though in small amounts because few acres of either variety have been planted through the years.

(Zinfandel, by the way, should not be confused with white Zinfandel, a sweet, simple blush wine we lovingly refer to as “California Kool-Aid.” Rather, it is a robust red famous in Northern California’s Dry Creek Valley.)

Here are some examples of both Zinfandel and Primitivo from Washington wineries.

Grantwood Winery 2010 Zinfandel, Walla Walla Valley, $19: The nose rings of freshly cracked black pepper, blackberry, blueberry, red cherry, raspberry and vanilla extract. On the palate, those notes explode like a water balloon, making this Zin from a new Walla Walla winery attractive, complex, long and lush. Moderate tannins are overtaken by hints of graphite and a juicy cranberry finish.

Maryhill Winery 2010 Northridge Vineyard Primitivo, Wahluke Slope, $32: This Goldendale winery is famous for its Zinfandel, and it crafts Primitivo equally well. This opens with aromas of cigar leaf, dried strawberry, raspberry and something that reminds us of an Arab spice market. On the palate, it reveals flavors of black pepper, dark chocolate, strawberry-rhubarb jam and Bing cherry.

Martin-Scott Winery 2010 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $20: This East Wenatchee winery is run by Mike Scott, who produces delicious and affordable reds. This opens with luscious aromas of a Hostess berry pie, Nutella and black pepper, followed by flavors of boysenberry, dark chocolate and raspberry. This is a smooth, pretty wine.

Wind Rose Cellars 2011 Primitivo, Wahluke Slope, $25: Owner/winemaker David Volmut focuses on Italian varieties at his Sequim winery, and this offers aromas of strawberry, black pepper and cherry, followed by flavors of chocolate and raspberry. A core of ripe red fruit leads to a rich midpalate and good length.

Yakima Valley Vintners 2010 Primitivo, Horse Heaven Hills, $18: Let’s hear it for the next generation of Washington winemakers. This gorgeous Primitivo was produced at Yakima Valley Community College with grapes donated by Washington growers. It begins with aromas of spice, cherry syrup and oak, followed by flavors of rich dark chocolate, cherry and raspberry.

Siren Song Wines 2010 Zinfandel, Washington, $32: Owner/winemaker Kevin Brown runs this small winery in West Seattle. The California native used grapes from Milbrandt Vineyards on the Wahluke Slope for this Zin. This opens with aromas of fudge, raspberry and mocha, followed by rich flavors of chocolate, oak, cherry and raspberry. It’s a bold wine with a long finish.

Bunnell Family Cellar 2009 Wine o’Clock Primitivo, Columbia Valley, $22: Former Chateau Ste. Michelle head winemaker Ron Bunnell is behind this Prosser winery, and his wife, Susan, runs Wine o’Clock, a terrific restaurant and tasting room in the Vintners Village. This Primitivo opens with aromas of oak, smoke, strawberry syrup and mint, followed by flavors loaded with red fruit, cola, black pepper and chocolate. It’s all backed with firm tannins and a juicy finish.

Two Vintners 2010 Zinfandel, Wahluke Slope, $25: Morgan Lee, winemaker for this Woodinville winery, has crafted a Zin that has a bit of Primitivo and Petite Sirah blended for complexity. It shows off aromas of raspberry-chocolate sauce and black pepper, followed by flavors of raspberry jam. It’s a big, rich wine loaded with flavor.

Eric Degerman and Andy Perdue run Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Life

Brandon Hailey of Cytrus, center, plays the saxophone during a headlining show at Madam Lou’s on Friday, Dec. 29, 2023 in Seattle, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Lynnwood-based funk octet Cytrus has the juice

Resilience and brotherhood take center stage with ‘friends-first’ band.

FILE - In this April 11, 2014 file photo, Neko Case performs at the Coachella Music and Arts Festival in Indio, Calif. Fire investigators are looking for the cause of a fire on Monday, Sept. 18, 2017, that heavily damaged Case’s 225-year-old Vermont home. There were no injuries, though a barn was destroyed. It took firefighters two hours to extinguish the blaze. (Photo by Scott Roth/Invision/AP, File)
Music, theater and more: What’s happening in Snohomish County

Singer-songwriter Neko Case, an indie music icon from Tacoma, performs Sunday in Edmonds.

Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
Tangier’s market boasts piles of fruits, veggies, and olives, countless varieties of bread, and nonperishables, like clothing and electronics.
Rick Steves on the cultural kaleidoscope of Tangier in Morocco

Walking through the city, I think to myself, “How could anyone be in southern Spain — so close — and not hop over to experience this wonderland?”

chris elliott.
Vrbo promised to cover her rental bill in Hawaii, so why won’t it?

When Cheryl Mander’s Vrbo rental in Hawaii is uninhabitable, the rental platform agrees to cover her new accommodations. But then it backs out. What happened?

The Moonlight Swing Orchestra will play classic sounds of the Big Band Era on April 21 in Everett. (submitted photo)
Music, theater and more: What’s happening in Snohomish County

Relive the Big Band Era at the Port Gardner Music Society’s final concert of the season in Everett.

2024 Honda Ridgeline TrailSport AWD (Honda)
2024 Honda Ridgeline TrailSport AWD

Honda cedes big boy pickup trucks to the likes of Ford, Dodge… Continue reading

Would you want to give something as elaborate as this a name as mundane as “bread box”? A French Provincial piece practically demands the French name panetiere.
A panetiere isn’t your modern bread box. It’s a treasure of French culture

This elaborately carved French antique may be old, but it’s still capable of keeping its leavened contents perfectly fresh.

(Judy Newton / Great Plant Picks)
Great Plant Pick: Mouse plant

What: Arisarum proboscideum, also known as mouse plant, is an herbaceous woodland… Continue reading

Bright green Japanese maple leaves are illuminated by spring sunlight. (Getty Images)
Confessions of a ‘plantophile’: I’m a bit of a junky for Japanese maples

In fact, my addiction to these glorious, all-season specimens seems to be contagious. Fortunately, there’s no known cure.

2024 Hyundai IONIQ 6 Limited (Hyundai)
2024 Hyundai IONIQ 6 Limited

The 2024 Hyundai IONIQ 6 Limited is a sporty, all-electric, all-wheel drive sedan that will quickly win your heart.

The 2024 Dodge Hornet R/T hybrid’s face has the twin red lines signifying the brand’s focus on performance. (Dodge)
2024 Hornet R/T is first electrified performance vehicle from Dodge

The all-new compact SUV travels 32 miles on pure electric power, and up to 360 miles in hybrid mode.

Don’t blow a bundle on glass supposedly made by the Henry William Stiegel

Why? Faked signatures, reused molds and imitated styles can make it unclear who actually made any given piece of glass.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.