‘Plenty More’ from Yotam Ottolenghi, an omnivore who values vegetables

  • By Joe Yonan The Washington Post
  • Wednesday, October 22, 2014 4:20pm
  • Life

If there was a vegetarian cookbook of the decade, it would have to be “Plenty,” Yotam Ottolenghi’s 2011 international bestseller, which has helped introduce scores of home cooks to the glories of za’atar, pomegranate molasses, preserved lemons and other formerly esoteric Middle Eastern ingredients. At the same time, it proved to any doubters that vegetarian cuisine can be wonderfully vibrant and exciting.

Ottolenghi, 45, is a wildly successful London chef-restaurateur with a column in the Guardian that for years focused on vegetarian cooking. But he isn’t a vegetarian. He’s an Israeli-born omnivore with a lifelong appreciation of vegetables who brings his infectious curiosity and unerring palate to the subject of plant-based cooking. The author of two bestselling books (“Ottolenghi” and “Jerusalem”) with his Palestinian business partner, Sami Tamimi, he’s back to meat-free dishes with “Plenty More” (Ten Speed Press).

The new book is arranged by cooking technique (chapters have titles like “Tossed,” “Grilled,” “Roasted” and “Mashed”). After trying — and loving — several recipes, I talked with Ottolenghi by telephone. Edited excerpts of our conversation follow.

Q. How do you think differently about cooking vegetables from cooking meat?

A. Vegetables need a little bit more help than meat, I find. So I focus on things like char-grilling or roasting, which intensifies the flavor or adds a little smoky aroma, and marinating, leaving something in the marinade for quite a while. Those offer an extra dimension of flavor to vegetables.

What is key to me are the cooking techniques. There’s a kind of common knowledge about what it means to cook meat well: prime cuts cook very quickly, cheap cuts cook longer. That doesn’t necessarily get applied to vegetables, and that’s what I’m trying to do here. If you take Brussels sprouts or cauliflower and you roast them or grill them or marinate or serve them raw and shred them, these are ways of achieving very, very different things.

Q. Why do you think “Plenty” struck such a chord?

A. One reason is that the vegetables are put in a context where they can really make a statement. The other reason is that I use a set of Middle Eastern ingredients that I grew up with that are absolutely fantastic and were bound to be discovered anyway, and I implemented them in a modern context. I was in the right place at the right time. Tahini, for example, is such a key ingredient in Middle Eastern cooking, and five to 10 years ago most people didn’t know about it and didn’t cook with it. But to me, it’s almost as important in cooking as olive oil.

Q. What are your new favorite ingredients, things you think might catch on next?

A. One of them is black garlic. I don’t know how common it is in North America, but in London it’s become quite in vogue and you can get it in lots of shops. I’ve been using it a lot in marinades and dressings. It’s extremely wonderful, with an anise-y, cocoa-y, molasses flavor. I think that will catch on.

Another ingredient that’s even more esoteric is kashk, dried and rehydrated fermented yogurt. It’s very effective, again, in infusing vegetables with umami flavor. It’s absolutely fantastic.

Q. Do you ever feel pressure to develop vegan recipes?

A. I used to never try to make food vegan as such, but I’m more aware that people want vegan food because I’m told. So now I try. There are quite a few vegan recipes in “Plenty More,” and ever since the publication, I’ve started with my Guardian column to include more and more vegan recipes. I’m trying to keep the flavor profile high and wonderful. When you draw away the possibility of using dairy, you lose the possibility of those tremendous flavors, like mature cheeses. I struggle sometimes, but I recently developed a recipe for a fantastic soup for the winter with freekeh, butter beans, ancho chili and a bouquet garni the size of a football.

Q. Has your cooking changed now that you’re a father?

A. Not so much, because what we’ve tried to do with our boy, from the time he started eating solids, was to just give him what we ate, really, maybe without salt and sugar. Max doesn’t eat everything, but he likes quite a lot of things. I think the first thing he had was roasted butternut squash with tahini and za’atar from “Jerusalem.” He was 8 months old and he loved it. It was pretty impressive.

bc-veggies (TPN)

Squash with chili yogurt and cilantro sauce

6 servings

Mixing Sriracha with Greek yogurt and drizzling it over a dish like this is a fast-track way to reach a sweet-sharp depth of flavor. The fresh herb paste brings in another layer of freshness, along with a visual “wow.”

Adapted from “Plenty More: Vibrant Vegetable Cooking from London’s Ottolenghi,” by Yotam Ottolenghi (Ten Speed Press, 2014).

1large butternut squash (3 pounds)

1teaspoon ground cinnamon

6tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

13/4ounces cilantro, leaves and stems, plus more leaves for garnish

1small clove garlic, crushed

21/2tablespoons hulled pumpkin seeds

1cup regular or low-fat plain Greek yogurt

11/2teaspoons Sriracha (may substitute another savory chili sauce), plus more as needed

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat to 425 degrees. Have two rimmed baking sheets at hand.

Cut the squash in half lengthwise. Discard the seeds, then cut the squash into wedges 3/4 inch wide and about 23/4 inches long, leaving the skin on. Place in a large bowl with the cinnamon, 2 tablespoons of the oil, 3/4 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Mix well so that the squash is evenly coated. Place the squash pieces skin side down on the baking sheets and roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until soft and starting to color on top. Remove from the oven and let cool.

To make the herb paste, combine the cilantro, garlic, the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil and a generous pinch of salt in a mini food processor; puree to form a smooth paste.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Spread the pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and roast for 6 to 8 minutes. The seeds will become light and crispy. Let cool.

To serve, swirl together the yogurt and Sriracha. Lay the squash wedges on a platter and drizzle the yogurt-Sriracha sauce, then the herb paste, over the top. (Or swirl the sauce and herb paste together if you like.) Scatter the toasted pumpkin seeds on top, followed by the extra cilantro leaves and additional Sriracha, if desired, and serve.

Nutrition Per serving (using low-fat yogurt: 300 calories, 9 g protein, 34 g carbohydrates, 17 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 310 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar

Sweet-and-sour leeks

4 servings

Use long, relatively thin leeks if you can find them; otherwise, just halve their number.

Adapted from “Plenty More: Vibrant Vegetable Cooking from London’s Ottolenghi,” by Yotam Ottolenghi (Ten Speed Press, 2014).

8small, thin leeks, white parts only (see headnote)

2bay leaves

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

Scant 1 cup dry white wine

3tablespoons olive oil

1cup water, or more as needed

1teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1small red onion, finely chopped

Scant 21/2 tablespoons dried currants

1tablespoon apple cider vinegar

2teaspoons sugar, preferably superfine

2tablespoons sunflower oil or safflower oil

31/2ounces creamy goat cheese

1tablespoon whole or torn chervil or flat-leaf parsley leaves

Cut the leeks crosswise into segments, each about 4 inches long, and rinse well to dislodge any grit.

Arrange the leeks in a single layer in a large, shallow skillet or saute pan; add the bay leaves, garlic, wine, olive oil and the water, or more of the last as needed so the leeks are half-covered in liquid. Add 3/4 teaspoon of the salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Place over medium heat; cook, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, until a knife can be inserted into the leeks without resistance. Turn the leeks once or twice during this time so they cook evenly.

Use a slotted spatula to transfer the leeks to a plate.

Strain the remaining cooking liquid into a small saucepan, discarding the solids; reduce over high heat to a total of 3 tablespoons. This should take 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Add the onion, currants, vinegar, sugar and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and season lightly with black pepper. Let the mixture sit, to soften and marinate, while you saute the softened leeks.

Heat the sunflower or safflower oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Carefully add the leeks and saute for 2 minutes on each side, until lightly golden. Transfer to a plate to cool.

To serve, divide the leeks among individual plates. Dot with the cheese, spoon the onion and currant dressing over the top, and garnish with the chervil or parsley leaves.

Nutrition Per serving: 320 calories, 6 g protein, 22 g carbohydrates, 19 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 470 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 11 g sugar

Eggplant cheesecake

4 to 6 servings

This savory, rich dish is heaven as a large square for lunch, with greens and perhaps bread. It also works well sliced into smaller pieces for nibbles before supper. If you’d like to cut back on the fat, you could halve the amount of oil you brush on the eggplant.

Make ahead: The cheesecake can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Za’atar, a spice blend that typically includes thyme, sesame and sumac, can be found in some larger grocery stores, at Middle Eastern or Mediterranean markets and online.

Adapted from “Plenty More: Vibrant Vegetable Cooking from London’s Ottolenghi,” by Yotam Ottolenghi (Ten Speed Press, 2014).

1/4cup plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, plus extra for brushing

2medium eggplants, cut crosswise into 3/4-inch slices (1 1/2 pounds total)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

5ounces feta cheese, crumbled into large chunks

5ounces cream cheese

3large eggs

1/4cup heavy cream

1cup grape tomatoes, each cut in half lengthwise

1/3cup oregano leaves, coarsely chopped

11/2teaspoons za’atar

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line the base and sides of a deep 71/2-inch square baking pan (or an 8-inch round baking pan) with aluminum foil, making the pieces large enough so that at least 2 inches hangs over each of the four sides, and brush with a little oil.

Lay the eggplant slices on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and brush with 1/4 cup of the olive oil (see headnote). Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon of salt and a generous grind of black pepper. Roast for 40 minutes, until the eggplant slices are soft and golden. Set aside to cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees.

Combine the feta, cream cheese, eggs, cream and some black pepper in a bowl and beat with a hand-held mixer until smooth and thick. It might take several minutes to eliminate all the lumps from the feta.

Arrange the eggplant slices in the prepared baking pan, overlapping them if necessary. Add the tomatoes, using them to fill any gaps, and sprinkle with half of the oregano.

Pour the cream mixture into the pan, sprinkle with the remaining oregano and bake in the oven for 35 to 40 minutes, until the custard sets and turns golden. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature.

Remove the cake from the pan and cut into 4 squares (or into wedges, if using a round dish). Mix the za’atar with the remaining 1 teaspoon of oil, brush this gently over the top and sides of the cake, and serve.

Nutrition Per serving (based on 6): 340 calories, 10 g protein, 10 g carbohydrates, 29 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 155 mg cholesterol, 460 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar

Walnut and halvah cake

12 servings

This cake is a treat for all ages, for teatime fun or served as a dessert, with thick whipped cream.

Make ahead: Wrapped in aluminum foil, the cake will keep for a day or two at room temperature.

Halvah is a Middle Eastern confection typically made from tahini paste, nut butters and sugar. It is available at some larger grocery stores (Giant, Safeway, Harris Teeter) and at Middle Eastern markets.

From “Plenty More: Vibrant Vegetable Cooking from London’s Ottolenghi,” by Yotam Ottolenghi (Ten Speed Press, 2014).

For the filling and topping

4tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

Scant 11/4 cups walnuts, coarsely chopped

1teaspoon ground cinnamon

Scant 3 tablespoons dark muscovado sugar (may substitute turbinado or another coarse raw sugar)

For the cake

6tablespoons unsalted butter (3/4 stick), at room temperature, plus more for the pan

1/2cup granulated sugar, preferably superfine

2large eggs

12/3cups flour

3/4teaspoon baking powder

3/4teaspoon baking soda

1/2teaspoon kosher salt

1/2cup plus 1 tablespoon sour cream

6ounces plain sesame halvah, broken into 1-inch pieces (see headnote)

For the filling and topping: Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Allow it to sizzle for 3 or 4 minutes, until it is light brown and smelling slightly nutty. Remove from the heat to cool.

Combine the brown butter, walnuts and cinnamon in a medium bowl. Divide the mixture in half, then stir the muscovado sugar into one of the portions; you might need to use your hands to ensure that the sugar breaks up and spreads evenly through the mixture. (The sugarless butter-nut mixture will be the filling.)

For the cake: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with a little butter, then line the bottom and sides with parchment paper, cut large enough so that it overhangs by several inches on each side (for ease of removal).

Combine the butter and granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer or hand-held electric mixer; beat on medium speed until light and fluffy. Stop to scrape down the bowl. Add the eggs one at a time; beat on medium speed, until well incorporated. Stop to scrape down the bowl.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt on a sheet of wax paper. Add this to the batter on low speed, alternating with the sour cream, in a couple of additions, being careful not to over-mix.

Spread half of the batter into the prepared loaf pan. Scatter the sugarless butter-nut mixture evenly over the batter. Dot the halvah pieces on top. Spread the remaining batter evenly as a top layer; this might be slightly challenging, as the halvah drags into the batter, but don’t worry about it too much. Finish by sprinkling the topping mixture (sugary nuts) evenly over the surface.

Bake until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes, then gently remove it from the pan by lifting the parchment paper. Discard the paper; transfer the cake to a wire rack to cool completely before serving.

Nutrition Per serving: 400 calories, 7 g protein, 31 g carbohydrates, 27 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 240 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 14 g sugar.

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