In the winter, I love to hike along rivers.
In the summer, they often get neglected in favor of lofty peaks with grand lookouts. But in winter, rivers are even more wonderful. Everything is wet and green. The mist makes the trees look noble and mysterious.
Recently, I headed to Staircase Rapids near Hoodsport for a hike with a friend.
It’s a bit of a drive if you’re coming from Snohomish County, but it’s a lovely hike and worth the time.
The hike follows along the North Fork Skokomish River, which flows into Lake Cushman. (Actually a reservoir.)
I had never been out to the reservoir before and it’s stunning. It’s also the site of many hikes, it turns out, including some brutal ones. We skipped Wagonwheel Lake (2.9 miles and 3,2000 feet of gain, according to the sign) but made a mental note to come back to it later for some excellent conditioning.
We headed up the river instead, admiring the luxuriant moss. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a trail with such thick moss. My hiking companion kept finding bits to make into mustaches. (There’s a reason I keep hiking with her.)
The trail stays near the river, mostly in sight of it, nearly the entire way. The river is charming, with clear water that turns a lovely deep blue in some areas.
While we stopped for lunch we watched a common merganser surfing through some rapids. It appeared to be hunting for fish while it surfed.
On our way back, we took a side trail option over the river. There’s a lovely bridge there, with a view up and down the river. We lingered there for quite a while, watching the water swirl underneath us. We headed back to the car very reluctantly.
This trail is in excellent shape. There’s very little mud, even after some heavy rain, and it’s pretty flat. It would be a good warm up hike, or a great hike for young kids. There are several out and back or loop options that would let you take a longer or shorter hike.
If you go
The hike is about 4 miles round trip. An extremely nice bridge (clearly replacing one that washed out at some point) across the river allows you to make a loop that’s about 2 miles.
To get there, drive to Hoodsport. At State Route 119, head west. At a T intersection, turn left onto Forest Road 24. At a junction head right, following signs for Staircase Ranger Station. The trailhead is within Olympic National Park, so you’ll need to pay at the bulletin board by the trailhead or display a parks pass. (No one was at the entrance booth when we were there.)
There’s a campground right at the trailhead with many nice campsites.
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
