Layers of flavor in a strata makeover

  • By Ellie Krieger Special to The Washington Post
  • Tuesday, June 2, 2015 12:32pm
  • Life

A strata, also called a breakfast bake or casserole, is a savory, eggy bread pudding that is often served for a special-occasion brunch. If you have tried one before, chances are it was delicious but also laden with cream, meat and lots of cheese.

This recipe takes the dish in a lighter, more healthful direction but enhances its celebratory appeal with a burst of colorful spring vegetables – sweet peas, asparagus and shredded carrot – plus umami-packed sun-dried tomatoes and a fragrant whisper of fresh tarragon. A touch of Parmigiano-Reggiano and mozzarella cheeses gives it a depth of flavor and rich texture without weighing it down.

A quintessential make-ahead dish, a strata is ideally suited for serving guests. It needs to be prepared at least eight hours ahead (you typically make it the night before) so it can sit in the refrigerator, where the bread soaks up the seasoned egg-milk mixture.

A little more than an hour before you are ready to serve, you simply uncover the strata and pop it into the oven. It comes out puffed and golden on top and almost soufflelike inside.

While it’s definitely a dish that will wow guests, it also reheats well a scoop at a time in the microwave or covered in a 350-degree oven, which makes it perfect to have on hand for busy weekday breakfasts.

Breakfast strata primavera

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large onion, diced (11/2 to 2 cups)

2 cloves garlic, minced

8 ounces asparagus (1/2 bunch, woody ends trimmed off), sliced into 1-inch pieces

1 cup fresh or frozen green peas

8 cups cubed whole-wheat baguette or other crusty bread (1-inch pieces)

10 large eggs

2 cups nonfat milk

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

3/4 ounce freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (lightly packed 1/4 cup)

2 ounces low-fat mozzarella cheese, shredded (1/2 cup)

1 large carrot, scrubbed and shredded (1 cup)

1/4 cup thinly sliced vacuum-packed sun-dried tomatoes, soaked in hot water to rehydrate if very dry

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt

Make ahead: The assembled strata needs to be refrigerated for at least 8 hours and preferably overnight.

Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute, then stir in the asparagus. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus is just beginning to soften, 1 minute. Stir in the peas, then remove from the heat.

Coat a large (about 9 by 13 inches) baking dish with cooking oil spray. Arrange the bread cubes over the bottom.

Whisk together the eggs, milk and mustard in a mixing bowl until well incorporated. Add the vegetable mixture, both cheeses, the carrot, sun-dried tomatoes, tarragon, pepper and salt, stirring to incorporate. Pour the mixture over the bread, then gently stir to evenly distribute the vegetables. Cover tightly with plastic wrap; refrigerate for at least 8 hours and preferably overnight. Most of the liquid will be absorbed.

Remove the strata from the refrigerator, uncover and allow to sit at room temperature while you preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bake until the egg mixture is set and the top forms a golden brown crust, 65 to 75 minutes. Serve warm.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Nutrition: Per serving (based on 10): 290 calories, 17g protein, 34g carbohydrates, 10g fat, 3g saturated fat, 195mg cholesterol, 530mg sodium, 5g dietary fiber, 7g sugar

Ellie Krieger’s most recent cookbook is “Weeknight Wonders: Delicious Healthy Dinners in 30 Minutes or Less.” She blogs and offers a weekly newsletter at www.elliekrieger.com.

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