Watermelon is full of surprises

  • By Bonnie S. Benwick The Washington Post
  • Tuesday, June 30, 2015 4:28pm
  • Life

Nothing hits the spot at an outdoor gathering quite like a slice of sweet, juicy watermelon — and yet, we thought it might be fun to work with the fruit in unexpected ways.

— Bonnie Benwick, The Washington Post

Watermelon molasses

4small spring onions, all but about 2 inches of greens trimmed off

Pinch kosher salt

1generous tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

5.3ounces chopped seedless watermelon (no rind)

Scant 3 ounces (6 tablespoons) heavy simple syrup (see notes; may substitute cane syrup)

2 teaspoons crumbled saffron threads

This floral and stunning sauce, which is great on grilled and barbecued meats and vegetables, is the result of a happy mistake, says Patowmack Farm executive chef Tarver King. After he over-reduced a pan of tomato water to a near-molasses state, he experimented with other fruit and vegetable juices. Watermelon was his favorite.

His original recipe calls for glucose; we made a heavy simple syrup instead (see note).

Make ahead: The molasses can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 months.

Adapted from Tarver King, executive chef at Patowmack Farm in Lovettsville, Virginia.

Place the onions on a plate; salt them and let them sit for 10 minutes. Rinse well, then coarsely chop or slice the onions.

Heat the oil in a small saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the onions and stir to coat; cook for about 10 minutes, until wilted. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

Combine the watermelon and heavy simple syrup in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring and mashing, for 5 to 10 minutes or until the melon has liquefied. Turn off the heat.

Stir in the saffron and the onions; let sit for 30 minutes, then strain, returning the liquid to the same saucepan. Discard the solids. Cook for 30 to 40 minutes or until the liquid has reduced to a molasses-like consistency. Cool before serving or storing; the molasses will thicken further as it cools.

Note: To make the heavy simple syrup, combine 1 cup sugar and 1/4 cup water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat; cool completely before using.

Makes 12 servings.

Nutrition 5/8 Per 2-tablespoon serving: 40 calories, 0 g protein, 7 g carbohydrates, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 10 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar

Two-melon shake

2small bitter melons (about 5.3 ounces total; may substitute peeled seedless cucumber; see headnote)

3cups coarsely chopped seedless watermelon

1/2cup low-fat coconut milk

12 to 14 small ice cubes

Pinch kosher salt

Ginger ale

This refreshing drink gives you an excuse to use bitter melon: the green, pebbly, pickle-shaped fruit you find at Asian and Indian markets. It’s also a good way to use watermelon whose texture or age has made it a little less than ideal for eating out of hand.

Cut away some of the bumpy outer skin of the bitter melon, if desired. Cut the fruit open; scrape out the seeds. Coarsely chop to yield 1/2 packed up.

Combine in a blender, in order from bottom to top, the watermelon, bitter melon, coconut milk, ice cubes (depending on how thick you’d like your shake) and salt; puree until smooth.

Divide between tall pint glasses; top with ginger ale. Serve right away.

Makes 2 servings.

Nutrition 5/8 Per serving: 140 calories, 2 g protein, 27 g carbohydrates, 5 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 100 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 23 g sugar

Compressed watermelon salad

4 servings

Not so long ago, restaurant chefs were compressing watermelon at nearly every turn. Ever wonder why? The technique concentrates and intensifies the flavor and color.

They use a vacuum sealer or sous-vide machine, but you can get similar results with the method described here.

You’ll need one or two gallon-size zip-top bags.

Adapted from FabulousFoods.com.

Ingredients

For the watermelon and salad

One 16-ounce block peeled, seedless watermelon

Kosher salt

4 cups torn frisee

1 cup cubed whole-milk mozzarella

2 tablespoons raw, shredded coconut

For the dressing

1/4 cup plain rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons olive oil

Steps

For the watermelon and salad: Cut the watermelon into 2-inch squares that are 1/3-inch thick. Sprinkle them lightly with salt on one side. Lay the squares on flat surfaces that can fit inside the zip-top bags. Seal, pressing out as much air as possible. Place something on top of the bags that will provide gentle, even pressure, such as a plate with a few 15-ounce cans or a few bags of frozen peas on top. Freeze for 2 hours.

When the watermelon is ready, it will look flatter and have a denser texture. Transfer to a serving bowl; add the frisee and toss gently.

For the dressing: Whisk together the vinegar, sugar, lemon zest and juice, and oil in a liquid measuring cup to form an emulsified dressing.

Pour half of the dressing over the watermelon and frisee; toss gently to coat. Scatter the mozzarella cubes and coconut on top.

Serve right away; pass the remaining dressing at the table.

Nutrition 5/8 Per serving (using half the dressing): 210 calories, 9 g protein, 14 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 30 mg cholesterol, 290 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 11 g sugar

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Bacon-and-Cornmeal-Fried Watermelon

5 servings

Looking to do something fun with the summer fruit and imbue it with even more seasonal flavor, chef Jerome Grant and his kitchen team came up with this crunchy-juicy starter. When the pieces are cut open, the watermelon looks like sushi-grade tuna. The accompanying chimichurri balances the dish with spice and acid.

You’ll need a thermometer for monitoring the frying oil.

MAKE AHEAD: The chimichurri can be made and refrigerated a few days in advance. Taste for seasoning before serving.

From Jerome Grant, executive chef at Mitsitam Native Foods Cafe, National Museum of the American Indian.

Ingredients

For the chimichurri

1 medium jalapeno pepper (seeded or unseeded), cut into chunks

1/2 cup packed basil leaves

1/2 cup packed, coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1/3 cup olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

Kosher salt

For the watermelon

3 cups vegetable oil, for frying

2 cups flour

Kosher salt

3 large eggs

1/4 cup regular or low-fat milk

2 cups stone-ground yellow cornmeal

1/2 cup cooked, finely chopped bacon

Twenty 2-inch cubes seedless watermelon (no rind)

Steps

For the chimichurri: Combine the jalapeno, basil, parsley, olive oil and vinegar in a blender or food processor; pulse to the desired consistency. Taste, and season with salt as needed. Transfer to a serving bowl or airtight container; refrigerate until ready to use (up to a few days).

For the watermelon: Heat the vegetable oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with several layers of paper towels.

Meanwhile, place the flour in a medium bowl and season it lightly with salt. Whisk together the eggs and milk in a separate medium bowl. Combine the cornmeal and bacon in a third bowl.

Working in batches, dip and coat the watermelon pieces in this order: the seasoned flour, the egg-milk wash and the cornmeal-bacon mixture. Each piece should be completely coated. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes or just until golden brown. Immediately transfer to the paper towels to drain; sprinkle lightly with salt right away.

Discard any used egg-milk mixture, bacon-cornmeal mixture and flour. Serve with chimichurri spooned on top.

Ingredients are too variable for a meaningful analysis.

bc-watermelon-recipes

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