Mediterranean Kitchen lives up to the hype

Try the fries.

Seven bucks buys a ravishing mountain of fried potatoes at Mediterranean Kitchen. Topped with garlic, sumac, ketchup and feta cheese, these fries are top-notch.

So, too, was everything we tried on a recent visit to the family owned restaurant’s debut in Lynnwood.

It opened in June in a small strip plaza near the Nordstrom end of the Alderwood mall. “Where my favorite Thai place used to be,” my daughter said.

Other Mediterranean Kitchens are in Kirkland and Bellevue, where they’ve earned “Best of” awards and great reviews over the years.

Trish, a Herald colleague, first told me about Lynnwood’s Mediterranean Kitchen two months ago, and then she kept asking me if I’d gone there yet. She got all wide-eyed excited when talking about the food, especially the chicken shawarma and soup she hailed as “yum-yum-yum.”

“The smell of the garlic makes your mouth just salivate,” Trish said. “You have it once and you’re like, ‘I gotta go back. I need my fix.’ ”

She went back with 10 people for a family birthday party, but didn’t invite me.

A few weeks ago, a Midwestern childhood friend, Cheryl, and her son came for a visit after attending a four-day didgeridoo, harmonious inner-journey fest in Oregon. Cheryl lives and works at a consciousness-based university in Iowa started by the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi where everybody does transcendental meditation. It’s in Iowa. For real.

Mediterranean Kitchen seemed the perfect casual-yet-exotic fit for my exotic-yet-casual guests. An ordinary dining experience wouldn’t do, even though Cheryl and I spent many hours at McDonald’s playgrounds eating Happy Meals when our kids were little.

For old time’s sake, we ordered fries at Mediterranean Kitchen.

Orders are placed at the counter, cooked fresh, then served at the table. A menu board shows the variety of choices with the ingredients.

We wanted three chicken entrees to share. The friendly woman at the counter helped us pick out dishes that would complement each other. My two vegetarian kids had plenty of meatless options.

The restaurant has self-serve water decanters, one chilled with cucumbers and one without. Workers also come around and fill your water cups.

As soon as we sat down, bowls of soup arrived (it’s included with the meal). It was a greenish color that I like more in clothes than food. To be polite, I tried it. It was as delicious as Trish said.

I wanted more soup, but then the platter of fries ($6.95) arrived. There wasn’t a ketchup bottle on the table so I asked for some. Turns out I didn’t need it. That was a first. These were not Mickey D’s fries. Or like anything I’d ever tasted.

Garlic fries are often too garlicky. Cheese fries have too much goo. These had the right balance of cheese, spice and salt.

The chicken shawarma ($9.25) had marinated strips of chicken breast in red wine vinegar, spices, garlic, grilled onions, green onions, red cabbage and tomatoes, served with rice. Again, Trish was spot-on the yum factor.

The shish tawook ($9.65) had tender charbroiled chicken strips with garlic, lemon juice, herbs and spices.

My favorite was the daily special: three Lebanese-style chicken tacos with salad ($7.95). The medley of peppers, tomatoes, garlic, garbanzo beans and veggies gave every bite a different burst of flavor.

Portions are big. There was plenty to take home. I bought a bottle of the house garlic sauce ($5). Bottles of dressing are also for sale.

“The soup was crisp, light and flavorful,” Cheryl said. “We are used to eating at Mediterranean restaurants, but this food was exceptional.”

My son’s review: “The falafel sandwich is a filling and tasty entree for vegetarians. Biter beware: It’s overflowing with yogurt sauce, so grab some extra napkins before you dig in.”

My daughter approved of the place that replaced her favorite Thai eatery.

I’m glad I finally went. Trish was right. Yum, what took me so long.

Andrea Brown: 425-339-3443; abrown@heraldnet.com. Twitter: @reporterbrown.

Mediterranean Kitchen

18415 33rd Ave. W Suite G, Lynnwood; 425-245-7551; mediterraneankitchens.net.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Alcohol: None

Specialties: Shawarma, gyros, pita wraps and vegetarian soup.

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