Some good reasons to flex your mussel repertoire

  • By Ellie Krieger Special To The Washington Post
  • Thursday, September 17, 2015 5:03pm
  • Life

It is perplexing to me that mussels aren’t on more Americans’ dinner tables. The succulent shellfish have everything going for them. They are lip-smackingly tasty and fun to eat; they are inexpensive, widely available and packed with nutrients such as protein, vitamin B12, iron, selenium and omega-3 fats; they are one of the most sustainable seafood options; and they are kid-friendly.

Yes, you read that last reason right. We tend to see a bowl of mussels as sophisticated fare, but I have found that, given the chance, children relish the hands-on pleasure of eating out of a shell. In France, mussels are served as children’s meals in some chain restaurants, complete with a side of fries and a squeeze tube of applesauce for dessert.

Mussels are quick and easy to cook. Those sold today typically are cultivated, so you don’t need to worry about grit. Just scrub the shells lightly and discard their threadlike clumps, called beards. Then put the mussels in a big pot with some simmering liquid that has been seasoned with herbs and aromatics, cover and let them steam until they open up. Discard any that have not opened, and serve with the flavorful liquid that accumulates in the pot. The whole process takes maybe 15 minutes total.

When cooking mussels for a group, note that most recipes, including this one, are written to serve two people using a pot of the size you might cook pasta in. To serve four, double the recipe and use a very large stockpot if you have one, or divide the mussels between two pasta pots.

In the accompanying recipe, shallots and garlic are sauteed with thyme until soft, then white wine is added as the steaming liquid. Once the mussels are cooked, they are transferred to serving bowls and the sauce is finished with Dijon mustard, a touch of butter, fresh parsley and pepper. Serve the steaming bowl of mussels, drizzled with sauce, with some good, crusty bread to sop it all up.

Mussels with white wine Dijon mustard sauce

2pounds shell-on mussels

2tablespoons olive oil

2 to 4medium shallots, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)

2cloves garlic, very thinly sliced

1teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (may substitute 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)

3/4cup dry white wine

1tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1tablespoon unsalted butter

2tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1/4teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Serve with good crusty bread to sop up the sauce.

Rinse the mussels in cold water. Use a paring knife to remove any hairy clumps (beards). Scrub the shells well with a vegetable brush. Discard any mussels that are open and won’t close tightly when tapped.

Heat the oil in a large pot with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme; cook for 1 minute, stirring, until fragrant. Add the wine; increase the heat to high and bring to a boil.

Add the mussels, cover and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until the mussels have opened. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to individual serving bowls, discarding any that have not opened, leaving the cooking liquid in the pot.

Reduce the heat to medium; whisk the mustard and butter into the pot to form an emulsified sauce, then stir in the parsley and the pepper.

Pour the sauce evenly over each portion of mussels and serve right away.

Makes 2 servings.

Nutrition 5/8 Per serving: 380 calories, 15g protein, 16g carbohydrates, 22g fat, 6g saturated fat, 45mg cholesterol, 430mg sodium, 2g dietary fiber, 4g sugar

Ellie Krieger’s most recent cookbook is “Weeknight Wonders: Delicious Healthy Dinners in 30 Minutes or Less” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013). She blogs and offers a weekly newsletter at www.elliekrieger.com.

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