It was a long day on the story trail on South Whidbey Island. We explored Meerkerk Gardens and Greenbank Farm then hung out with a Freeland guy who lives in a caboose and calls himself the Conductor of Fun.
Herald photographer Andy Bronson and I had worked up an appetite when we pulled into Cozy’s Roadhouse in Clinton late on a weekday afternoon.
It’s a long, low white building by the side of the highway with black letters that say COZY’S. It’s easy to pass by unnoticed, even with a curved roof that looks like a UFO has landed.
As the website says: It’s nothing fancy. It’s a watering hole established in 1932 where locals come to eat and visit with their neighbors. On any given night you will hear a story about someone’s grandparents and when they used to come to Cozy’s.
Well, with a name like Cozy’s you have to figure it has warm, homey vibes. There were a few people sitting at the long bar, shooting the breeze, when we arrived. We could have slid onto a stool next to them. I’m sure they would have welcomed us and told us a Cozy’s story or six.
But we were hungry and tired. Besides, the Mariners were playing. We sprawled in a booth in the back family room near a TV and across from the pool tables.
We had the room to ourselves. I could envision the place hopping with action at night and on weekends. It has that casual dive-bar drink-up chill-out groove to it. And it had a “No Sniveling” sign, just like the last dining place I reviewed. Last week it was at a bar in Everett with naughty bingo; Cozy’s has poker and bourbon. Our readers deserve only the best.
When we told the caboose guy that we were headed to Cozy’s, he gave it the nod. “I always get the cheeseburger and my lady always gets the fish and chips,” he said.
The daily special was fish &chips, but I went for the Conductor of Fun’s choice of burger &chips. Andy went for chicken &chips.
My jalapeno burger ($8.99) had this description: “If you like your food burning hot, this burger does not disappoint. Onions and jalapeno peppers grilled together then topped with pepper jack cheese. We have plenty of water to soothe the pain.”
It wasn’t too hot. I thought it was just right. The attentive server kept my water glass filled and gave me lots of ice, just the way I like it. He was working the bar in front but still devoted plenty of time for us, treating us like we were part of the family.
Andy got a chicken pesto burger ($9.99), a skinless grilled chicken breast smothered in pesto sauce and topped with Swiss cheese.
“The pesto didn’t have enough garlicky basily bite to it,” he said. “Putting Swiss on there overpowered the pesto. I’d get it without the Swiss.”
Still, he ate every bite.
The fries were good. Not great. But good. We left no crumbs.
Online reviewers praise the hot pizza and cold beer. When I asked Herald artist and island dweller Margi Hartnett about Cozy’s, she got excited.
“Cozy’s feels like going to Grandma’s house for dinner,” she said. “It’s comfy. It’s like our own ‘Cheers’ bar where everybody knows everybody. Sometimes we even call people over to our table to join us for dinner. Barbecue ribs on Sunday night is only one of my favorites. Everything is tasty. My mouth is watering and I’m starting to relax just thinking about it.”
Cozy’s was a nice way to cap off the day. When the return ferry lines are long, this is a good place to wait out the wait. Strangers are made to feel welcome.
Maybe next time I’ll stop first. Have a pizza and a beer or three. Listen to a story or six. And invite the Conductor of Fun to join me.
Andrea Brown at 425-339-3443; abrown@heraldnet.com. Twitter: @reporterbrown.
8872 Highway 525, Clinton; 360-341-2838; www.cozysroadhouse.com.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; noon to 10 p.m. Sunday.
Alcohol: Full bar.
Vegetarian options: Salads, pizza, appetizers.
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