By Melissa Slager Herald Writer
If you liked the old A.P. Barbara’s, you will like its reincarnation as The Local Yolk Cafe.
Lykourgos “Lee” Agelopoulos is back at the helm of the building he owns along Lynnwood’s bustling 196th Street SW.
The previous owners, who bought the A.P. Barbara’s restaurant from the Agelopouloses in 2004, decided not to renew their five-year lease after seeing business decline.
So, after a name change and refreshed interior, the restaurant is back up and running with familiar faces and a familiar menu that blends American-style breakfast and lunch fare with Greek touches and plates.
“It was one of those things,” Agelopoulos said. “All my old customers are coming back, and they see the difference. We worked hard for over 12 years to bring the business up, so they appreciated that. … We keep going.”
With another restaurant in Queen Anne to operate, and with age catching up, Agelopoulos opted for breakfast and lunch hours only this time around.
The double-sided menu — one side for breakfast, the other for lunch — includes a variety of plates at mostly reasonable prices. Portions tend to be good-sized, and a kids menu includes more than just pancakes and chicken strips.
Breakfast specials include the usual suspects, such as eggs Benedict ($8.79, $9.99 with smoked salmon) and French toast ($7.29, $8.29 with seasonal fruit). There also are crepes ($6.99-$7.99).
A light menu includes smaller portions (all $5.99).
On our recent visit, I ordered the Kayana scramble ($7.99), a Greek tradition. Eggs are mixed with the restaurant’s spiced fresh-tomato sauce and topped with feta cheese. It was a refreshing change to my usual egg order, and I enjoyed the blend of flavors.
The hefty plate came with a large helping of thinly sliced fried red potatoes, some a nice crispy-brown. I liked the use of red potatoes, but they were rather bland and I didn’t bother eating them all.
I opted for two slices of wheat toast and was grateful to see they use a hearty multigrain.
Lunch options include burgers, both beef and chicken ($6.59 to $8.99), as well as sandwiches ($7.99 to $8.99), including a Monte Cristo and a veggie hummus.
The specials include halibut and chips ($11.99) and Lee’s spaghetti ($9.99), which combines chicken breast, mizithra cheese and their spiced tomato sauce.
My dining partner ordered the marinated chicken breast ($8.99). The sizable piece of meat was very moist and flavorful, leading her to declare it the best chicken she’d had. The kudos largely ended there. The plate came with the same bland hash browns and a dish of corn that predictably lacked flavor, given the time of year.
The special came with a choice of soup or salad, and she happily chose a cup of the Greek lemon, egg and rice soup — something she also enjoyed from the restaurant’s A.P. Barbara’s days.
My 2-year-old daughter was with us, and she feigned excitement for the kids-menu cheeseburger ($4.99) before deciding our meals looked more interesting. The burger was good sized, though not overwhelming for a child, and the server gladly substituted a small cup of salad for the fries.
This isn’t the best food I’ve ever tasted, but it is satisfying. The Local Yolk is a comfortable place to come and relax with family for a bite, and enough others agree that you may face a line come Sunday brunch time.
The Local Yolk Cafe
4025 196th St. SW, Lynnwood; 425-672-3666
Specialty: Breakfast and lunch
Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday
Price range: Inexpensive to moderate
Credit cards: Accepted