By Cassandra VanKeuren Special to The Herald
Can you find charm and great food among all the car dealerships, pawn shops and thrift stores on Evergreen Way in Everett? Yes, you can, at Denallis Grill and Bar.
Denallis opened recently and has been getting rave reviews on the web so I decided to give it a try on a recent Saturday night before the dinner rush. The atmosphere was relatively quiet with two muted TVs in the full bar. The restaurant is nicely decorated with vases and plants and has a section with booths and tall tables.
When I walked in, I was immediately greeted by a nice waiter and given a choice of seats. I ordered the house wine and took time to look over the menu.
Denallis specializes in Mediterranean and Greek food such as tapas, burgers, pastas, paninis and flat breads. While many entrees are $15 to $30, the burgers and paninis are relatively inexpensive, about $9.
I was dining solo that evening but ordered a bit extra to take home to my husband who was called in to work at the last minute. I ordered the zesty shrimp skewer ($7), the fruit and cheese flat bread ($8) and the yogurt- and lemon-marinated chicken breast ($15) with Israeli couscous and sauteed spinach, with soup instead of a salad.
I enjoyed the house wine. The shrimp — one skewer with about six shrimp — was lightly seasoned with a spice rub and served with a honey mustard dressing, perfectly cooked and tasty. I thought the honey mustard was an odd pairing with the shrimp, but these shrimp didn’t need any dressing.
The flat bread was very thin and grilled and topped with blue cheese, glazed walnuts, caramelized red onions, slices of green apple and blueberries. It was so amazingly tasty, I ate the whole thing myself. Oops. Sorry, hubby. The fruit toppings on these flat breads do change depending on what is available.
By the time the soup came, I was getting full. The soup of the day was lentil, made with green lentils and carrots. I found it a little bland but I think that is the way it is supposed to be. I had a few bites and ate the garlic toasts that came with it. The waiter kindly boxed the remainder up for me to take home.
The chicken cutlets, grilled and very tender, had a slight tang that did not cominate. I enjoyed it very much.
For those who do not know, Israeli couscous are pastas shaped in little balls, similar to orzo. My couscous was cooked with some flavorings and was a tasty backdrop to everything else on the plate. The sauteed spinach was perfectly cooked with garlic and Italian seasoning, a great way to eat your spinach. I could only eat half of what was on my plate so the waiter boxed that for me also.
I overheard the waiter tell another diner that one of the dishes was his aunt’s recipe. So when he brought me the check I asked him about the restaurant and the food. He said that he and his brother, mom, dad and grandma owned the restaurant and that 90 percent of the dishes are from his family’s recipes.
This bit of information added to the warmth and charm that is already a fantastic part of Denallis. Denallis Grill and Bar is a definite keeper among the menagerie on Everett’s Evergreen Way.
Denallis Grill and Bar
7318 Evergreen Way, Everett; 425-374-7002; www.denallis.com
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Saturday; noon to 10 p.m. Sunday.