Where to find Europe’s best seaside bars

  • By Rick Steves Herald Columnist
  • Friday, November 2, 2012 7:45pm
  • Life

With all the intensity in our domestic and political worlds lately, it’s a fine time for an escape. Let’s fantasize about the 10 best seaside bars in Europe.

In Dubrovnik, Croatia: Cold Drinks Buza offers, without a doubt, the most scenic spot for a drink in Dubrovnik. Perched on a cliff above the sea, clinging like a barnacle to the outside of the city walls, this is a peaceful, shaded getaway from the bustle of the Old Town … the perfect place to watch cruise ships disappear into the horizon.

“Buza” means “hole in the wall,” and that’s exactly what you’ll have to go through to get to this place.

In Istanbul, Turkey: The double-decker Galata Bridge spans the Golden Horn, a historic inlet that separates the old and new towns of Istanbul. And all along the horn and the bridge, you’ll find dozens of inviting, no-name bars. Find a place to nurse some Turkish specialties: Drink an unfiltered, highly caffeinated “Turkish coffee” (which leaves a thick coating of “mud” in the bottom) or a cup of tea, and suck on a water pipe filled with flavorful dried fruit.

In Salema, Portugal: One bit of old Algarve magic still glitters quietly in the sun: Salema. This simple fishing village has three beachside streets, many restaurants, a few hotels, a couple of bars, a classic beach with a paved promenade and endless sun. The Atlantico — right on the beach — is known for its fun drinks, friendly service and a wonderful beachside terrace.

In Nerja, Spain: Ayo’s is famous for its character of an owner and its beachside all-you-can-eat paella feast at lunchtime at Burriana Beach. For 30 years, Ayo — a lovable ponytailed bohemian who promises to be here until he dies — has been feeding locals.

The paella fires get stoked up at about noon. Grab one of a hundred tables under the canopy next to the rustic, open-fire cooking zone, and enjoy the beach setting with a jug of sangria.

In Villefranche-sur-Mer, France: In the glitzy world of the French Riviera, Villefranche-sur-Mer offers travelers an easygoing slice of small-town Mediterranean life. Luxury sailing yachts glisten in the bay, an inspiration to those lazing along the harborfront to start saving their money when their trips are over. Le Cosmo Bistrot takes center stage on Place Amelie Pollonnais with a great setting. Snag a table with views of the harbor.

In Vernazza, Italy: Ristorante Belforte’s tiny, four-table balcony lets you sip your “vino della Cinque Terre” overlooking the Mediterranean from the edge of a stony castle. You can feel the mist from the surf crashing below on the Vernazza breakwater. And the views of the ancient vineyard terracing all around you makes the experience a highlight.

In Conwy, Wales: This Welsh town, watched over by its protective castle, has a particularly charming harbor. On summer evenings, the action on the quay is mellow, multigenerational and perfectly Welsh. Everyone is here enjoying the local cuisine — “chips,” ice cream, and beer — and savoring that great British pastime: chasing little crabs.

Facing the harbor, The Liverpool Arms pub was built by a captain in the 19th century. Today, it remains a salty and characteristic hangout.

In Staithes, England: A ragamuffin village where the boy who became Capt. James Cook got his first taste of the sea, Staithes is a salty jumble of cottages bunny-hopping down a ravine into a tiny harbor on the North Sea.

There’s nothing to do but stroll the beach and nurse a harborside beer or ice cream. The Cod and Lobster, overlooking the harbor, has scenic outdoor benches and a cozy living room warmed by a coal fire.

In Solvorn, Norway: Walaker Hotel, a former inn and coach station, has been run by the Walaker family since 1690 (that’s a lot of pressure on eighth-generation owner Ole Henrik). The hotel, set right on the Lustrafjord, has a garden perfect for relaxing and, if necessary, even convalescing.

I love to savor my coffee and dessert on the balcony with a fjord-side setting, mesmerized by Norwegian mountains.

In Barcelona, Spain: Before the 1992 Olympics, Barcelona’s waterfront was an industrial wasteland nicknamed the “Catalan Manchester.” Not anymore. The industrial zone was demolished and sand was dredged out of the seabed to make pristine beaches.

It’s like a resort island, complete with lounge chairs, volleyball, showers, bars, WCs and bike paths. Every 100 yards or so is a “chiringuito,” a shack selling drinks and light snacks, keeping locals and tourists well-lubricated.

Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email rick@ricksteves.com, or write to him c/o P.O. Box 2009, Edmonds, WA 98020.

&Copy; 2012 Rick Steves/Tribune Media Services, Inc.

More in Life

Shrimp and grits, rendered healthful and Italian? We’re in.

This recipe features a sauce made with olive oil, tomatoes and herbs instead of cheese and cream.

UFO at Paine Field playground was left by an artist — not aliens

The flying saucer at community park in Everett is a cosmic attraction.

Chef James Abbott makes Buck’s peanut butter pie at Buck’s American Cafe in Everett. (Kevin Clark / The Herald)
Fur & Feathers: 4 lovable dogs need homes

Meet Lola, Sadie, Scooter and Chance

Sweet baking tips: How to rescue brown sugar that’s turned hard

Soften the rock solid stuff, then try this recipe for chocolate chunk cookies with sea salt.

Valentina Bogdanova, 74, loves working in the gardens that nearly surround the Bakerview Apartments, where she has lived for 20 years. The units are among 16 affordable and subsidized properties leased to seniors by the Everett Housing Authority. (Dan Bates / The Herald)
As real estate booms, those with fixed-incomes need help

When senior citizens get housing, they are able to ‘age in place.’

Melania Trump to donate inaugural ball gown to Smithsonian

Melania Trump is donating her inaugural ball gown… Continue reading

Harry Potter exhibit marks 20th anniversary of first book

Many of the things Harry Potter fans thought were imaginary were actually based in fact — or folklore.

Visiting Germany’s Lutherland, birthplace of Reformation

The sights include the church where the first Protestant service took place in 1521.

Most Read