The Forum: How did this French dish become a classic?

Published 1:46 pm Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Great veggie dishes — either side or main — are not, regrettably, a dime a dozen.

Take ratatouille. Not the fun movie, the classic French vegetable concoction. Do it now, do it later. Cook, cool, bring back to room temperature and it’s table-ready. Slide it out of the oven or off the stovetop, shove it aside briefly, and it’s good to go.

Basically, no matter what or which recipe you choose to use, ratatouille is built with a combo of yummy fresh veggies and seasoned with a selection of taste-enhancing herbs. The cooking process then melds the flavors, and …

And I’ve never ever had a bite that was worth dirtying a fork for. Maybe it’s just me. Maybe it’s not.

Tell the truth and shame the devil, as my beloved Aunt Faye would say — have you?

If so, and you’re in a mood to share, zip the how-to along to Judyrae Kruse at the Forum, c/o The Herald, P.O. Box 930, Everett, WA 98206.

We are always happy to receive your contributions and requests, but please remember that all letters and e-mail must include a name, complete address with ZIP code and telephone number with area code. No exceptions and sorry, but no response to e-mail by return e-mail; send to kruse@heraldnet.com.

Meanwhile, the possibility of discovering just such a savory and satisfying dish can’t be denied, so let’s take a look at an Argentine takeoff of this ageless European specialty.

It’s the creation of Rick Browne, internationally known barbecue chef, cookbook author, restaurant critic and host of public television’s “Barbecue America.”

It’s adapted from his “The Best Barbecue on Earth” cookbook, and here it is:

Cheesy grilled vegetables — from Argentina

6firm plum tomatoes

1red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and quartered

1large onion, quartered

2small zucchini, halved lengthwise

2tablespoons olive oil

1tablespoon chopped fresh basil

1/2teaspoon dried thyme

1/2teaspoon minced garlic

1teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4eggs

1/2cup whole milk

1cup shredded Gruyere (or sardo) cheese

1cup fresh bread crumbs

2tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for indirect grilling (it is not necessary to use a drip pan with this recipe). Preheat to 350 degrees. Make sure the grill rack is clean and oil it thoroughly with a nonstick cooking spray. Spray a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with cooking spray and set aside.

Lightly brush the tomatoes, bell pepper, onion and zucchini with olive oil. Place the vegetables on the grill rack and cook over direct heat, turning several times, until vegetables start to brown on the edges but are still firm. Keep the vegetables separate on the grill, as the zucchini will be finished first, then the tomatoes, then the bell peppers, then the onions. Set aside until cool enough to handle. Remove the skins from the tomatoes and peppers, and cut all the vegetables into 1/2-inch pieces. Drain the tomatoes on paper towels.

Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl. Add the basil, thyme, garlic, salt and pepper, stirring to combine.

In another large bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk, stir in the Gruyere or sardo cheese, and add the mixture to the vegetables, stirring to combine. Pour into the prepared skillet. Sprinkle the top with the bread crumbs and the Parmesan cheese.

Transfer the skillet to the barbecue and cook over indirect heat until the edges of the mixture are browned and the center is set, about 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, cut into wedges and serve.

Makes 4 to 6 side-dish servings.

The next Forum is Friday