Izakaya Seki’s chahan — fried rice with garlic chips — looks plain and even unassuming, but all it takes is one taste to realize that this is pure comfort food, a perfect balance of flavors and textures in each bite.
At the stove behind the bar, Hiroshi Seki makes the technique look simple. In truth there are some tricks: selecting high-quality ingredients, gently frying the garlic chips so they don’t burn, using properly cooked (and completely cooled) rice. “It’s simple but not easy,” he says with a smile.
The result is as sublime as a late-night snack. That makes it particularly appropriate for a Japanese-style pub; however, you might find yourself craving it for breakfast, lunch and dinner, too.
Garlic fried rice (Chahan)
1 to 2 servings
1. Combine 1/2 cup canola oil and 4 thinly sliced garlic cloves in a small saucepan over medium heat. Let the oil heat slowly, and, once it is hot, fry the garlic slices until they are deep golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a paper-towel-lined plate.
2. Crush the garlic slices into small pieces, and reserve 1 tablespoon to make the rice. (Save the oil for stir-fries and salad dressings, and the remaining garlic for salad topping.)
3. Pour 2 teaspoons canola oil and 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil into a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl to coat, then add 11/2 cups cooked Japanese short-grain (sushi) rice, using a wooden spoon or paddle to break it up. Stir-fry until the rice is coated in the oil and warmed through, a few minutes, shaking the pan to keep the rice moving.
4. Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt and 1/2 teaspoon sugar. Pour 1 tablespoon sake and 1 tablespoon mirin around the edges of the pan, and stir them in, then sprinkle in 1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce, stir-frying just until the rice is coated.
5. Add the tablespoon of fried garlic pieces and 1 tablespoon thinly sliced shiso leaves (or scallions, if you prefer) and continue stir-frying another minute or two, until the rice is glossy but dry. Taste, and add a little more soy sauce as needed.
6. Scrape the fried rice onto a plate, sprinkle it with 1 tablespoon thinly sliced nori, and serve hot.
Joe Yonan, The Washington Post
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