A spot of fun in England

  • By Rick Steves / Special to The Herald
  • Saturday, April 1, 2006 9:00pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

While other cities on the southern coast of England keep their stiff upper lip, Brighton knows how to let loose, just as it has for the last two centuries. Sporting a garish 19th-century Royal Pavilion, a kid-pleasing carnival pier and a long stretch of rocky beach, Brighton is the destination for students, bohemians and blue-collar Londoners looking to go “on holiday.” It may not be the most tasteful place you’ll ever visit, but one thing is certain: in Brighton, you’ll never be bored.

In the 1790s, Prince George, who went on to rule England as King George IV in the 1820s, chose this place to build his vacation palace, now called the Brighton Royal Pavilion. After his decision, royal followers began a frenzy of construction in Brighton. Soon, this once-sleepy seaside village was transformed into a resort town. With the rise of train travel, connections to London became quick and cheap, making Brighton an easy vacation spot.

The Royal Pavilion, once the king’s holiday residence, is still one of Brighton’s most eye-catching landmarks. The exterior was designed by John Nash, a Regency-era architect who redesigned Buckingham Palace. You can tour the colorful, exuberant – even gaudy – sitting rooms and royal bedrooms for about $10. (King George, who paid royally for this palace, would think you’ve gotten off cheap.)

George, decadent and trendsetting, was well-known for his scandalous “secret” marriage to Catholic widow Mrs. Fitzherbert. He loved to vacation by the sea and host glamorous dinner parties. He was enamored with Asian cultures, and the rooms you’ll see in the Royal Pavilion are filled with exotic decorations from the East.

While George built the palace for royal reasons, it was used mainly as a party pad to entertain guests. His passion was music, and the evidence is the massive Music Room, where the royal band serenaded guests under Chinese-inspired decor. George’s other passion? Food. In the Banquet Room, the ornate table is permanently set for the dessert course. Standing in the palace, you can imagine England’s elite munching crumpets under the one-ton chandelier, with its dragons exhaling light through lotus-shaped shades.

Prudish and more practical Queen Victoria took the throne seven years after George’s death. She scorned the excesses in George’s court, and quickly sold the decadent Pavilion to the local town council, which still own it today. It was only recently that Queen Elizabeth II brought the Pavilion’s original furniture out of storage and returned it to the palace (for more info on visiting, see www.royalpavilion.org.uk).

Glittering and shiny with amusement rides and carnival games, the nearby Palace Pier is the place to go for fortune tellers, “candy floss” (cotton candy) and tacky souvenirs. The pier, built in 1891, has gone in and out of fashion; in recent years, it’s come back to life, thanks to a restoration. The main pavilion, which is free to enter, is a 19th-century gem.

With enough time, pop into the free Brighton Museum and Art Gallery, which displays decorative arts with a heavy focus on 20th-century design. The modern pseudo-kitsch includes Salvador Dali’s Mae West Lips Sofa and the architect Frank Gehry’s Wiggle Chair. The cafe above the gallery has a pleasant view of the action (www.brighton.virtualmuseum.info).

While Brighton isn’t likely to be confused with Spain’s Costa del Sol (the gravel beach is your first clue) you can wander along the waterside to get your feet wet. Striped beach chairs on the promenade are free for your lounging pleasure. As vacationers have known for more than 200 years, Brighton offers a fun escape from the everyday life – and a fix of candy floss to boot.

Rick Steves of Edmonds (425-771-8303, ) is the author of 30 European travel guidebooks, including “Europe Through the Back Door.” He hosts a public radio show, “Travel with Rick Steves” (Saturdays at 2 p.m. on KUOW 94.9 FM) and the public television series “Rick Steves’ Europe” on KCTS, airing some weeknights at 7 p.m. This week’s schedule:

Monday: London: Mod and Trad

Wednesday: Highlights of Paris: Eiffel and Monet to Crme Brule

Thursday: Belgium: Bruges and Brussels

Friday: Provence: Legendary Light, Wind and Wine

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Life

Everett P. Fog, 15, in front of an Everett mural along Colby Avenue on Wednesday, Jan. 22, 2025 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Hello, Everett! No escape when your name is same as the town

Everett P. Fog, 15, sees and hears his first name wherever he goes. His middle name is also epic.

Jared Meads takes a breath after dunking in an ice bath in his back yard while his son Fallen, 5, reads off the water temperature on Tuesday, Oct. 15, 2024 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Chill out: Dive into the cold plunge craze

Plungers say they get mental clarity and relief for ails in icy water in tubs, troughs and clubs.

Schack exhibit to highlight Camano Island watercolorists

“Four Decades of Friendship: John Ebner & John Ringen” will be on display Jan. 16 through Feb. 9.

XRT Trim Adds Rugged Features Designed For Light Off-Roading
Hyundai Introduces Smarter, More Capable Tucson Compact SUV For 2025

Innovative New Convenience And Safety Features Add Value

Sequoia photo provided by Toyota USA Newsroom
If Big Is Better, 2024 Toyota Sequoia Is Best

4WD Pro Hybrid With 3-Rows Elevates Full-Size

2025 Toyota Land Cruiser (Provided by Toyota).
2025 Toyota Land Cruiser revives its roots

After a 3-year hiatus, the go-anywhere SUV returns with a more adventurous vibe.

Enjoy the wilderness in the CX-50. Photo provided by Mazda USA Newsroom
2025 Mazda CX-50 Adds Hybrid Capability to Turbo Options

Line-Up Receives More Robust List Of Standard Equipment

Practical And Functional bZ4X basks in sunshine. Photo provided by Toyota Newsroom.
2024 bZ4X Puts Toyota Twist On All-Electric SUV’s

Modern Styling, Tech & All-Wheel Drive Highlight

Photo provided by Mazda USA Newsroom
2025 Mazda3 Turbo Premium Plus Hatch Delivers Value

Plus Functionality of AWD And G-Vectoring

2025 Mazda CX-90 Turbo SUV (Provided by Mazda)
2025 CX-90 Turbo models get Mazda’s most powerful engine

Mazda’s largest-ever SUV is equipped to handle the weight, with fuel efficiency kept in check.

Provided by Bridges Pets, Gifts, & Water Gardens.
Discover where to find the best pet supplies in town

Need the perfect store to spoil your furry friends? Herald readers have you covered.

VW Jetta SEL is a sedan that passes for a coupe. Photo provided by Volkswagen U.S. Media.
2025 VW Jetta Offers Greater Refinement, Technology And Value

A Perfect Choice For Small Families And Commuters

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.