To get a complete picture of Portugal, include a trip to Porto, the capital of the north and the country’s second-biggest city. Porto (POR-too, as locals say) sprawls on the hilly north bank of the Douro River near where it meets the Atlantic Ocean.
Gritty, hardworking Porto may be less cosmopolitan than Lisbon, but it’s also full of charm. And it’s enjoyed a cultural renaissance in recent years. European Union money has been pouring in, funding a revamping of the public transportation system. Although this ongoing construction means that Porto is ever-changing, the city is well worth the transitory chaos.
At a minimum, use Porto as a gateway to visit the terraced Douro Valley (covered in next week’s article), lush with vineyards that yield port wine. Many people don’t realize that this sweet, dense, after-dinner wine originated in Portugal. Port was originally a British phenomenon, developed by traders who added grape brandy to wine to maintain its quality during the long sea voyage from Portugal to Britain.
Porto itself offers two high-impact sightseeing thrills: the postcard-perfect ambience of the riverfront Ribeira district and the opportunity to learn more about (and enjoy) the port wine that ages here. The city also has sumptuous churches, a bustling market hall, and worthwhile museums. The Tramway Museum is surprisingly interesting, tracing transport from horse-drawn trams (Porto’s were the first in Iberia) to the city’s slick, still-under-construction Metro system.
The Ribeira (“riverbank”) district is the most colorful and touristy quarter, with the highest concentration of postcard racks and good restaurants. Strolling the Ribeira Embankment, while popping in and out of shops that line the way, is Porto’s best lazy-afternoon activity for travelers and locals alike.
Old arcades line the Ribeira promenade, and behind them are skinny, colorful houses draped with drying laundry fluttering like proud flags. Locals stand on their little balconies gossiping. Like in Amsterdam, riverfront property taxes here were based on frontage, promoting the construction of these narrow, deep, and undeniably picturesque buildings.
The unique boats you’ll see moored along the river are called rabelos. These traditional Portuguese boats were once the only way to transport wine from the Douro Valley to Porto. With Asian-inspired ornate flourishes, rabelos have flat bottoms (to keep them from scraping), a big square sail, and a very large rudder (for navigating through the rough, twisty river).
The tourist’s Porto is compact but steep, making distances seem longer. Foot-weary travelers enjoy the “Six Bridges” cruises (operated by several different companies, each charging about $10) that leave continually from the Ribeira riverfront. These relaxing one-hour excursions float up and down the Douro River, offering a fine orientation and glimpses of all of Porto’s bridges, including the majestic steel Ponte Dona Maria Pia by Gustav Eiffel, architect of the famous French tower. The boats, which generally run daily in summer until early evening, come in two types: the traditional rabelos and bigger, modern cruise boats.
Whether you’re strolling the promenade, cruising the Douro, or sampling port in this port city, Porto gives you a fine taste of authentic Portuguese culture.
Rick Steves of Edmonds (425-771-8303, www.ricksteves.com) is the author of 27 European travel guidebooks including “Europe Through the Back Door” (published by Avalon), and host of the PBS-TV series Rick Steves’ Europe, airing weeknights at 7 p.m. on Channel 9. (The shows are preempted this week, because of the Democratic National Convention.)
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