Assertive sauces

  • Associated Press
  • Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:00pm
  • Life

When researchers from the American Institute for Cancer Research were developing material for their new cookbook, they set their sights on finding a recipe for hot citrus sauce served over whole-wheat pasta.

The quest produced three intriguing recipes. It had to be a sauce dominant enough to stand up to the assertive taste and texture of the pasta, explains Jeff Prince, the institute’s vice president for education and team leader of the cookbook compilers.

The result of the team’s work, “The New American Plate Cookbook,” ($24.95), is subtitled “Recipes for a Healthy Weight and a Healthy Life.” It is a collection of some 200 recipes in a nicely designed volume with a generous number of exceptionally attractive color photos.

The book’s purpose is to help people fight the dangers of overweight and chronic disease by incorporating more vegetables and fruits into everything they make, Prince says.

“The idea of a pasta sauce developed from citrus fruit struck us as exactly the kind of innovative use of vegetables or fruits that might intrigue people while offering them significant health benefits,” he said.

Two citrus-pasta dishes offered by British food writer and recipe developer Belinda Hollyer made it into the whole-grain section of the cookbook: fettuccine with fig and chilies, and whole wheat linguine with citrus sauce and vanilla.

The cookbook team was divided on a third offering, three-fruit pasta, a recipe from chef Stefano Frigerio, who is based in Washington, D.C.

A minority complained that the tang of grapefruit in combination with whole-wheat was too strange. The majority loved it for just that strangeness. Since unanimity was required, the recipe was not included in the cookbook.

Here are all three recipes. All are meatless.

8fresh black mission figs, rinsed, dried and stems removed

2dried chilies (use any medium-heat chili, such as ancho)

2lemons

1/2cup plain fat-free yogurt

12ounces whole-wheat fettuccine

2tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

A few sprigs of fresh mint or flatleaf parsley, for garnish

Cut figs in quarters or eighths, depending on size. (About 1 to 2 cups, depending on size of figs.) Place figs cut-side up on a plate. Chop the chilies into small pieces, discarding the seeds and stems; measure about 1 tablespoon chopped chilies to use in this recipe (see note).

Grate the zest of both lemons and squeeze the juice of one lemon. Stir the lemon zest and juice into the yogurt and set it aside.

Cook the fettuccine in a large pot of boiling water until just tender, or al dente.

Meanwhile, in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the figs and saute for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the chili and season to taste with salt and pepper. Continue to saute for 1 minute. Remove the skillet from the heat.

Drain the fettuccine. Return to pot. Stir in the lemon and yogurt mixture and the Parmesan cheese. Transfer pasta to a serving platter and spoon the fig and chili mixture over the top. Garnish with mint or parsley.

Note: Wear rubber gloves to handle chilies, and keep your hands away from your eyes.

Makes 6 servings. Per serving: 318 cal., 7 g total fat (2 g saturated), 58 g carbohydrate, 12 g protein, 10 g dietary fiber, 98 mg sodium.

8ounces whole-grain linguine pasta

1/4cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1small pink grapefruit, peeled, halved, seeded and diced (about 1/2 cup), including juice

2medium oranges, peeled, halved, seeded and diced (about 1 cup), including juice

1medium tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped (about 1/2 cup)

1/2cup loosely packed, chopped flatleaf parsley

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Honey (optional)

Cook the pasta according to the package instructions, using 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Drain well and transfer to a large bowl. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the grapefruit and oranges (and their juices) with the tomato. Stir in remaining olive oil and the parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a blender and pulse on puree speed a few seconds, or until fruit is reduced to tiny pieces. Taste the puree and, if too tart, stir in a small amount of honey.

Stir the fruit mixture into the drained pasta and serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings. Per serving: 351 calories, 15 g total fat (2 g saturated), 51 g carbohydrate, 9 g protein, 9 g dietary fiber, 18 mg sodium.

Fish stock, lime and orange juice and zest, in addition to vanilla, contribute to the wonderfully layered flavor of this sauce, which is strong enough to complement whole-wheat linguine.

1tablespoon canola oil

Pinch of salt

8ounces whole-wheat linguine

1cup rich fish stock

1/2tablespoon vanilla extract

2tablespoons fresh lime juice, strained

3/4cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice, strained and separated

2tablespoons grated orange zest

1sprig fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

1 1/2teaspoons cornstarch

1 1/2tablespoons canola oil or extra-virgin olive oil

2tablespoons cold butter

White pepper

4sprigs fresh thyme, for garnish (optional)

Preheat oven to its lowest temperature and place a large, heatproof bowl on an oven rack set in the middle of the oven.

Heat a large pot of water over high heat with 1 tablespoon canola oil and a generous pinch of salt. Prepare the linguine according to the package directions until just tender, or al dente. Drain the linguine thoroughly. Transfer it to the warmed bowl and place in the oven until ready to combine with the sauce.

To prepare the sauce, place the stock in a medium saucepan. Add the vanilla. Bring to a boil, then immediately reduce heat to medium. Cook until reduced by half, about 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and 3/4 cup of orange juice, the zest and the thyme. (If using dried thyme, first crumble it between your fingers until it is almost powdery.) Reheat the sauce until it comes to a boil, then immediately reduce heat to a simmer. Gently simmer 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small cup, mix the cornstarch into the remaining tablespoon of orange juice until well combined. Reduce heat to low. Add the cornstarch mixture to the sauce and continue stirring until the sauce thickens slightly and becomes translucent. Remove the thyme sprig, if using, and whisk in the canola or olive oil. Whisk in the butter until it dissolves, about 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with pepper. The sauce should take on a satiny finish. Return the sauce to medium-high heat.

Add the hot linguine, shaking the pan to coat the noodles with the sauce. Serve immediately. Garnish each serving with a sprig of fresh thyme, if desired.

Makes 8 servings. Per serving: 165 calories, 6 g fat (2 g saturated), 25 g carbohydrate, 5 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 100 mg sodium.

Recipe adapted from “The New American Plate Cookbook.”

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