Blazing Onion faultless but lacks distinction

When a Herald reader e-mailed me about what he said was a disappointing meal and sub-standard service at the Blazing Onion Burger Co., the restaurant slipped toward the bottom of the “to-review” list. But a second Blazing Onion is about to open in the new Snohomish Station shopping center, so I moved the restaurant to the top of the list.

Blazing Onion Burger Co. started about a year ago in Mill Creek with the concept that never-frozen patties made from ground chuck and produce from local growers would make a better burger. Also, the wait staff aren’t assigned to a specific section — instead, everyone serves all tables.

The menu offers 24 burgers with extras such as gorgonzola cheese, sweet hickory barbecue or teriyaki sauce, pepper jack cheese, bacon, ham and guaca­mole; six sandwiches including a cod burger and a chipotle salmon filet, plus six salads. Other choices include cod and chips ($10.99); salmon with dill butter, sweet potato fries, house salad and garlic cheese bread ($14.49); and sirloin steak or pork rib dinners ($14.99).

The small bar features 10 beers and ales on tap ($3.75). I ordered a Moose Drool, which I first experienced a few weeks ago during a trip to Montana. The eight bottled beer choices are $3, and wine is served by the glass ($4.75 to $6.50).

The Herald reader who sent the e-mail had ordered a burger and his wife a Southwest chicken salad, so my friend and I asked for the same on a recent Saturday visit. We ordered at the counter and moved to the dining area, an inviting place, complete with a fireplace and three large-screen televisions. The counter staff brings the orders to the tables from the kitchen.

While waiting for our order, my friend and I selected our dessert — mocha mud pie ice cream cake ($5.49) from the tabletop menu and read the instructions for the “service alert” sign, which is placed atop the condiments rack when customers need a server.

Our order arrived after a normal wait and, unlike the Herald reader, we had an ample supply of napkins while I had the necessary fork for my salad. My friend’s Blazing Onion burger was made with cheddar cheese, lots of grilled onions and house sauce. It was a thick, tasty and wonderfully messy handful. Instead of french fries or sweet potato fries, my friend had a house salad, which resembled a tossed salad served at most places.

My chicken salad had all the ingredients listed on the menu — an issue for the Herald reader: a bed of iceberg lettuce, tomato quarters, black beans, jalapeno slices, shredded jack and cheddar cheese in a pasta bowl with tri-colored chips around the edge of the dish. A sliced, grilled chicken breast topped it all, and salsa-ranch dressing came with the salad in two plastic cups.

The salad was good and I’d order it again, and my friend agreed his burger was good. We used the service alert sign to request glasses of water and to order our oversized ice cream cake. Our sign got the attention of the person who took our order and was putting orders together in the kitchen when we left, but it didn’t seem to work for all the staff.

My friend and I agreed that our dinner was good, but we couldn’t find much distinction between Blazing Onion and some of the chains like Red Robin.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.

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