Mendocino County’s white wines are among the most distinctive made in California. Here are some of the best among the current releases. Because most of these wines are made in limited quantities, buying direct from the winery is often the best way to find them.
Chenin Blanc 2005 Graziano: Bone-dry, stony, with a terrific acidic finish. $14 at www.grazianofamilyofwines.com; 707-744-8466.
Gewurztraminer 2005 Handley Cellars “Anderson Valley”: Exotic nose of spice along with rose and orange blossoms. Velvety texture with a firm acid backbone. $17 at www.handleycellars.com; 800-733-3151, 707-895-3876.
2005 Husch Vineyards: Lovely nose of rosewater and citrus. Rich flavors balanced by acidity. $14 at www.huschvineyards.com; 800-554-8724.
2004 Lazy Creek Vineyards: Made from 40- to 50-year-old vines. Exotic nose beginning to show a little mature petrol character. Rich texture balanced by firm acidity. $22.50 from Lazy Creek Vineyards, 707-895-3623.
2005 Navarro Vineyards: Heady with the scent of rose geraniums and peaches. Great texture, balanced with acidity and a slight bitterness at the finish. $18, for release Nov. 1 at www.navarrowine.com; 800-537-9463, 707-895-3686.
Pinot Blanc 2005 Lazy Creek Vineyards “Hein Vineyard”: Nose is almost Riesling-like, and flavors lean toward melons and peaches with a hint of almond at the finish. Juicy, mouth-filling texture. $39.50 from Lazy Creek Vineyards, 707-895-3623.
2004 Barra of Mendocino Pinot Blanc: Made from 50-year-old vines, this wine’s style emphasizes citrus and spice, with hints of slate in the finish. $15.50 at www.barraofmendocino.com; 707-485-0322.
Pinot Gris 2005 McFadden Vineyard Pinot Gris: A great food wine, herbal and citrus flavors with a strong acid structure. $13.50 from 800-544-8230.
2005 Monte Volpe Pinot Grigio: Terrific food wine. Burry, figgy flavors with a hint of almond in the finish. $14 at www.grazianofamilyofwines.com; 707-744-8466.
2005 Handley Cellars Pinot Gris “Anderson Valley”: Subtle, flowery nose. Rich texture with spicy, figgy fruit and firm acidity. $17 at www.handleycellars.com; 800-733-3151.
2005 Nelson Family Vineyards Pinot Grigio “Estate”: Velvety texture balanced with clean acidity. Extracted flavors of figs and stones. $15 at www.nelsonfamilyvineyards.com; 707-462-3755.
Riesling 2004 Navarro Vineyards White Riesling: Steely Alsatian-style Riesling with hints of flowers and cloves in the nose. $16 at www.navarrowine.com; 800-537-9463, 707-895-3686.
2005 Nelson Family Vineyards: Stony Alsatian nose with hints of spice and flowers. Slightly sweet, with tastes of apricots and peaches and slate. $14 at www.nelsonfamilyvineyards.com; 707-462-3755.
Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Graziano: Crisp, citrusy with hints of lemon and melon. $14 at www.grazianofamilyofwines.com; 707-744-8466.
2003 Jepson: Mature nose with fruit yielding to grass and herbs. Strong acidity with nice, long finish. $11.50 at www.jepsonwine.com; 800-516-7342.
2004 Handley Cellars “Ferrington Vineyard”: Rich texture with figs and spice in nose and long, citrus finish. $14 at www.handleycellars.com; 800-733-3151.
2005 Navarro Vineyards “Cuvee 128”: Green, sappy, figgy and mouth-filling. $16, for release this month at www.navarrowine.com. 800-537-9463, 707-895-3686.
2005 Saracina Vineyards: Lovely grapefruit nose, complex flavors with completely integrated melons and figs and lingering acidity. $24 at www.saracina.com; 707-744-1671.
Viognier 2004 Bonterra: Ripe, rich nose with peach blossoms and tropical fruit. Thanks to firm acids, the wine never gets unctuous or syrupy. $14 at www.bevmo.com. 925-730-5247.
2003 Jepson: Rich, exotic tropical fruit nose balanced by good acidity. Not at all syrupy or oily. $16 at www.jepsonwine.com; 800-516-7342.
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