French Chablis is among the world’s most delightfully idiosyncratic and complex wines. It’s not much like other chardonnays, including French white Burgundy, which is made about 100 miles to the southwest, and it’s thoroughly unlike the horrible California jug “chablis,” which often are not even made from chardonnay.
What sets Chablis apart is its sheer energy. In good vintages, such as the just-released 2005, it is vibrantly alive, offering crisp green apple and pear flavors followed by a whiplash of tangy mineral and citrus on the finish. Although the Chablis region is technically part of Burgundy, it’s closer to the more northerly region of Champagne than to the Cote d’Or. The key to Chablis is the cool climate and the distinct mineral flavors imparted by the limestone chalk soil, known as Kimmeridge. They combine to create a wine of exceptional raciness, often a bit lean when young but among the most age-worthy white wines.
Because of its taut structure, Chablis is a perfect choice for raw oysters and spicy crab cakes, and in ripe vintages such as 2005 and 2003, the extra body and softer fruit make for an excellent match with white meat poultry, lobster and light, buttery fish.
Online resources for finding wines include www.winesearcher.com and www.wineaccess.com. Call stores to verify availability. Prices are approximate.
Outstanding
Jean-Claude Bessin 2005 Chablis ($20): Led by lemons, stones and green apple, and finishing with tangy mineral flavors.
Jean-Marc Brocard 2005 Chablis Domaine Ste. Claire ($25): Complex and long on the palate, well-structured and laced with clean earth and mineral elements.
J. Moreau &Fils 2005 Chablis ($18) All classic steely flavors of Chablis, with an additional touch of juicy ripe citrus.
Georges Pico 2005 Chablis Domaine de Bois d’Yver ($17): Textbook aromas of hay and minerals, followed by pleasing citrus and peach flavors.
Very good
Christian Moreau Pere &Fils 2005 Chablis ($20): Nuanced aromas of stone and white peach followed by complex, minerally flavors of lemon-lime and apple.
Domaine Barat 2005 Chablis Les Fourneaux ($24): Quite citric and brisk, with a tight finish that makes it perfect to drink with raw oysters.
William Fevre 2005 Chablis Champs Royaux ($22): Round, smooth and full, with flavors of peach and green apple.
Olivier Leflaive 2005 Chablis Les Deux Rives ($20): Rounder than most, with flavors of orchard fruit.
Louis Michel &Fils 2005 Chablis ($21): Wonderfully clean, with a sneaky depth of lemon-lime and mineral flavor.
Gilbert Picq 2005 Chablis ($19): Fruity in the middle but with good steely reserve on the finish.
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