Two classic inns, Kalaloch Lodge and Lake Quinault Lodge, are just a scenic drive away from Snohomish and Island counties, tucked into the west side of one of Washington’s crown jewels – Olympic National Park.
Designated a national park on June 29, 1938, by President Franklin D. Roosevelt, its 922,000 acres include 60 miles of wild Pacific coast, 600 miles of trails and the largest remaining undisturbed old growth and temperate rain forest in the Pacific Northwest.
Last year, approximately 3 million people visited the park, making it one of the state’s most popular natural attractions.
I recently spent two nights at its rustic inns. Because I live on Whidbey Island, I took the ferry from Keystone to Port Townsend and traveled on scenic U.S. 101. You can also hook up with U.S. 101 by way of the Edmonds-Kingston ferry and the Hood Canal Bridge. On the way, you can stop at the Olympic National Park Visitor Center in Port Angeles for a map and other useful park information.
Beyond Port Angeles and Lake Crescent, the highway turns south and meanders toward the Pacific, and my first ocean view was at Ruby Beach, just north of Kalaloch. A short trail leads to the driftwood-littered beach, highlighted by spiral sea stacks in the surf.
Back on the road, a simple sign reading “Big Cedar Tree” piqued my interest, and it was indeed impressive. I later learned that it is one of the world’s largest western red cedar trees, standing 130 feet tall.
By now I was road weary and anxious to check into Kalaloch Lodge, where I had stayed years ago with my then-young son and one of his pals.
This rustic retreat was built in 1953 and features 10 guest rooms in the main lodge and 44 cabins (the latter have kitchenettes and Franklin fireplaces). I ditched my gear and headed to the beach, one of seven to explore in the area. The Quinault Indians named this area Kalaloch or “land of plenty,” and there is no shortage of sand, surf or sunsets.
But time hasn’t been so kind to the lodge or cabins, which have seen brighter days. It’s a somewhat tired property, and according to Charles Willis of ARAMARK Parks &Resorts (the concessionaire that manages both Kalaloch and Lake Quinault lodges), there are plans to upgrade the facility.
“Current National Park Service plans are to commence building in about four years,” Willis said. “Hopefully, the existing lodge will remain in place until construction is complete.”
That evening I enjoyed dinner in the lodge’s restaurant, feasting on Hood Canal oysters accompanied by an Argyle pinot noir. Another beach walk, and I was ready to retire. After a hearty breakfast the next morning, it was back on the road for the 30-minute trip to Lake Quinault.
Be advised: Cell phones don’t work well in this part of the world, so bring a phone card if you need to keep in touch.
As I passed through the small community of Amanda Park, I spied the Quinault River Village Internet Cafe. This is a good spot to check your e-mail and enjoy a latte.
A few miles from the cafe, I spotted the rustic yet elegant Lake Quinault Lodge. It was designed by Robert Reamer, the Seattle architect who also designed Yellowstone Park’s Old Faithful Inn. Forty-five craftsmen from the Pacific Northwest worked around the clock to beat the upcoming rainy season when construction began on June 9, 1926. Just 53 days later Lake Quinault Lodge opened on Aug. 18.
Today, the resort has 92 guest rooms, an indoor heated swimming pool and its trademark sweeping front lawn down to the lake. But my favorite haunt is the lobby with its river-rock fireplace (real, not gas); wicker couches and overstuffed chairs; plenty of board games and a convenient service bar for an afternoon glass of wine. On a misty Saturday, the fire crackled, people read and napped, kids whined and an older couple played a game of Rummikub. I checked into my room, which was upstairs in one of the new wings.
With more than 250 miles of hiking trails in the Quinault Valley (15 of them within walking distance of the lodge), there is no lack of outdoor entertainment – even if it’s drizzly outside. Just bring rain gear.
I went on a number of hikes, including the Quinault Lake Trail right outside the lodge and the nearby Rain Forest Nature Trail. The latter is only a half-mile long and is a good introduction to the surrounding ecosystem. There’s also the Quinault Loop Trail (4-8 miles) and the lodge offers 90-minute boat tours on the lake. If you need to pack a meal for the trail, the lodge will prepare a box lunch for you, or the Quinault Mercantile is just across the road and stocked with everything from sandwich fixings to camping gear (and they make a mighty fine burger, too).
A mile from the lodge is the Big Spruce Tree Trail, near Rain Forest Resort Village. The short walk (.3 mile) leads to the largest known Sitka spruce tree in the world, an impressive 191 feet tall and 58 feet around. A hand carved sign declares it to be “about 1,000 years old.”
And for yet another big tree, Quinault Big Cedar Trail on the North Shore (you’ll have to drive there) is a half-mile round-trip trek on a hillside trail built by the Washington Conservation Corps. The prize at the end is a “Hobbit” like tree with an enormous cavity, estimated to be 2,000 years old. It stands 159 feet tall and is the perfect place to escape from the rain.
Later that evening, I enjoyed dinner back at the lodge, in the Roosevelt Dining Room. I silently toasted the 32nd President of the United States. He left a wilderness for all to enjoy.
Sue Frause is a Whidbey Island freelance writer and photographer. She may be reached at skfrause@whidbey.com.
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