EVERETT – One of my cookbooks is dedicated to explaining and separating Tex-Mex from New-Mex from Arizona-Mex from California-Mex. (Mexico-Mex is in another book.) The differences include chili without beans, using cumin and New Mexico green chili versus Anaheim chili or jalapenos.
Coyotes Grill and Bar, which opened about a month ago, serves up Southwest cuisine that has a little Tex-Mex in its “Tex-Mex breakfast burrito” ($7.99), and some traditional Mexican such as enchiladas and tacos ($6.50 to $10.25). Denver and Kansas City sneak onto the menu as an omelet ($6.99) and a tequila-marinated steak ($15.99).
New Mexico shows up as a Santa Fe burger ($7.95) and the entire Southwest appears on the menu as “desert dust” fries and Southwest coleslaw.
On a recent Friday night, I passed on the “Cobra Bites” – deep-fried cheese-stuffed jalapenos ($6.95). At the same time, my dinner companion decided against the “Hot Snake Bite,” a sandwich made with a grilled chicken breast that’s rubbed with chipotle and served with pepper jack cheese, jalapenos plus tomatoes, onions and a squeeze of lime juice ($8.50).
Instead, he ordered the barbecue beef sandwich ($6.25), which comes with those desert dust fries, Southwest coleslaw and beans. He declared everything in his order as “not bad,” which means it was really good. He especially liked the beans and put in a little extra effort to getting every bit out of the serving bowl.
I had the chicken chimichanga, which is a deep-fried burrito ($10.25). In addition to the chicken, the stuffing included onions and cheese. It was topped with sour cream and guacamole.
On the first bite, I thought I tasted New Mexico green chili, but decided the recent heat wave had scrambled my brains. A few more bites and I was taking the chimichanga apart and finding chunks of New Mexico green chili among the onions and chicken. About this time, our server came to check on us and confirmed that New Mexico green chili flavored my dinner.
Coyotes Grill and Bar is located in a spot that was a cafe for many years; then, for a while, it was home to Indian cuisine. Now, the mustard- and cinnamon-colored walls wear antiques and photos from Hollywood’s past. In a porthole sits a coyote with his nose pointed to the sky, making it look like he’s howling at the moon. The message on the restaurant’s answering machine says, “food to make you howl.” For this transplanted New Mexican, the Southwestern cuisine was a howling good taste treat.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.
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