Crab season brings chowder demands

  • By Judyrae Kruse / Herald Columnist
  • Tuesday, August 22, 2006 9:00pm
  • Life

A boat and a crab pot are absolutely essential equipment for many of us living or summering near Puget Sound. And, while this can’t exactly be called a real blue-ribbon crab year, there are still nice numbers of Dungeness coming up and going home to the table.

Back by popular demand, then, we have a crab concoction today variously described as “memorable,” “marvelous,” “unforgettable,” “distinctively different,” “absolutely delicious and delightful,” and plain old “wonderful.”

These raves, it can be said, always come complete with something along the lines of, “Help! I need this recipe desperately!” tacked on.

Although the recipe itself is straightforward and uncomplicated, it calls for some ingredients you may not already have on hand, and the preparation of this soup does eat up time, meaning you’ll probably want to make the from-start-to-serve time frame a two-day process.

Now for the how-to, as originally shared in an Aug. 19, 1992, Forum column:

1whole Dungeness crab, about 2-21/2 pounds

1quart crab stock (recipe follows)

1/2cup plus 2 tablespoons butter, divided

3/4cup flour

3cups whipping cream

Juice of 1 lemon

Dash liquid hot-pepper seasoning

1tablespoon Worcestershire

1/4teaspoon Old Bay seasoning (see note)

1/4teaspoon ground white pepper

2teaspoons whiskey

1tablespoon dry sherry

Salt to taste

Clean crab and remove meat from shells, reserving shells. Wrap meat and refrigerate. Use shells to prepare crab stock.

To prepare soup, in large, heavy saucepan, make a roux by melting 1/2 cup butter over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add flour all at once. Stirring constantly, reduce heat to low and cook, stirring, until mixture is blond colored, about 5 minutes. Add crab stock, a cup at a time, whisking thoroughly after each addition. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes, skimming frequently. Add whipping cream, lemon juice, pepper seasoning, Worcestershire, Old Bay seasoning and white pepper, bring back to simmer and cook 10 minutes. Add whiskey, sherry, remaining 2 tablespoons butter and reserved crab meat and cook 1 minute to heat through. Season with salt and ladle into bowls.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Crab stock

2tablespoons olive oil

Shells from 1 Dungeness crab

1/4cup peeled, chopped carrot

1/2cup peeled, chopped onion

1/4cup chopped celery

1/4cup brandy or cognac

1quart cold water

2cloves unpeeled garlic, crushed

1bay leaf

1teaspoon dried tarragon

4tablespoons tomato paste

In heavy stockpot, heat olive oil; add crab shells, carrot, onion and celery and brown lightly. Add brandy and ignite. When flames have expired, add water, garlic, bay leaf, tarragon and tomato paste. Bring stock to low simmer and cook 2 to 3 hours, occasionally skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Remove from heat and strain mixture through fine sieve. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Note: Old Bay seasoning is available in the fresh seafood section (and often the herb/spice section, too) at most supermarkets.

The next Forum will appear in Friday’s Time Out section.

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