One of the enduring symbols of the Northwest is a Washington state ferry plying the waters of the San Juan Islands.
These ferries have introduced many of us to such wonderful places as Lopez, Orcas, Shaw and San Juan islands. But there are many other islands in the archipelago than these few popular destinations.
The numbers of visitors to them, however, are relatively small. Unless you own a boat or know someone who does, many of these water-bound jewels have been essentially inaccessible.
Two new water taxi services based in Anacortes aim to change that: Paraclete Charters, with a fleet of three speedy boats capable of carrying 34 to 64 people, provides transportation and charter service around the clock throughout the San Juans. They’ll drop you wherever you specify – beach, shoreline, headlands – as long as tide and landing conditions allow.
Island Express Charters provides essentially the same services from Cap Sante Boat Haven in Anacortes, but with one boat.
My friend Jen Dunton and I decided to take advantage of the Paraclete service to hike on Cypress Island. The 5,500-acre island is not serviced by state ferries.
The island has escaped most development because of difficult access, rugged terrain and poor soil. Logging and fishing were mainstays on the island.
About 4,700 acres, 93 percent of the island, are now under protection of the Department of Natural Resources. Most of this acreage is designated a “Natural Resources Conservation Area,” which tries to preserve natural systems, wildlife and recreational value.
About 20 miles of trails on the island are based mostly on old logging roads. These trails include a superb overlook at Eagle Cliff and access to beaches at several harbors.
We boarded the Paraclete at 10 a.m. at Skyline Marina in Anacortes and our pilot, Skip Heeter, had us underway shortly. There were several other groups on board and most people gravitated to the open back deck on the nice day. There’s also a cozy cabin for less clement weather.
We soon learned one of the advantages of the service, the opportunity to see other lesser-known islands on our way to being dropped off last at Cypress.
One couple, shopping for property, disembarked at Decatur Island; two other groups at nearby Center Island, a place I didn’t even know existed; and another at Blakely Island. All the while we enjoyed lovely views and new perspectives on the archipelago.
Because the boat tops out at 18 knots, we moved along spiritedly if a little noisily, thanks to a rattling diesel engine. At one point, the Victoria Clipper slipped in behind us. We were impressed with the Paraclete’s seaworthiness as it easily handled the swells of larger boats.
In spite of all the stops we were on Pelican Beach at the north end of Cypress by 11:30 a.m. I mean, literally on the shore because the boat nosed up to the gravelly beach in only a few feet of water, and a ladder was extended off the bow. We walked off with nary a spot of water on our hiking shoes.
All seven campsites at Pelican Beach appeared to be occupied by kayakers. We read the instructional billboards at the trailhead and struck off into the woods. In a short distance we elected to take a side trail to Eagle Cliff.
This 2-mile roundtrip spur climbs steadily through a forest of primarily Douglas fir to a spectacular rock outcropping at 752 feet. We had superb views of a long stretch of Rosario Strait, as well as Decatur, Orcas, Blakely and Lummi islands.
After doubling back to the main trail we proceeded south with the intent of reaching Cypress Head some 5 miles away. This trail offers periodic spurs to other destinations.
The second-growth timber is large in some areas and provided welcome shade throughout much of the hike. We noted with interest the return of nature as it slowly reclaims all but the trail path along these former roads.
We were glad we brought lots of water, as there is none to obtain on the island.
A short distance down the trail we encountered a seasonal ranger, who provided a good map and some trail tips.
When we were hungry, we decided to stop for lunch at Duck Lake. An 11-acre wetland, this shallow, reedy lake is not for swimmers. Just off the trail, at the edge of the lake, we found an observation area, with rustic wooden table, bench and log stools, and sat there in the shade enjoying the quiet.
After passing the beach at Eagle Harbor, we looked forward to swimming at Reed Lake. The map indicated that swimming was allowed there but I neglected to pay attention to the fine print: “By midsummer, aquatic vegetation dominates this 5-acre lake,” and such was the case.
Although it is a natural lake without development, it looked stagnant with a film and debris on the water. In truth, it is fed by a small stream.
A spokesperson for the DNR later assured me the lake was safe for swimming, as is Bradbury Lake off a spur trail.
After Reed Lake, the last two miles of the trail climbed steadily again through forest.
Much of this length of trail was constructed by Outward Bound and the Student Conservation Association. It reaches another high point at 760 feet and I was curious why we had to do this ascent, only to drop down again to Cypress Head.
Later in the boat, we observed that Cypress Head is mostly blocked from Reed Lake by an extended cliff rampart, and the trail had to be constructed over and around it.
The trail crosses private property at intervals and it is important to stay on the trail. This means that the six-plus miles of trail from Pelican Beach to Cypress Head involves more than 1,500 feet of elevation gain if you factor in the side trip to Eagle Cliff
We arrived at Cypress Head about 3:30 p.m., tired and somewhat dehydrated even though we had brought 5 bottles of water. We rationed what we had left and cozied up to a beach log while awaiting the arrival of the Paraclete some two hours off.
After a short nap we explored Cypress Head. A gravelly spit leads to campsites on the headland while separating bays to the north and south. There were plenty of campers, kayakers and boaters there that afternoon. It is a charming spot, across the water from Guemes Island.
Exactly at 5:30, as arranged, the Paraclete nosed onto the beach and we rejoined Heeter and several others for our 30-minute ride back to Skyline Marina.
We paid $64 each for the roundtrip adventure (prices vary according to distance), and felt it was worth every penny, especially when you consider it’s a lot cheaper than owning your own boat.
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