Sometimes the downright snootiness in relation to cooking these days is hard to swallow. But artichokes don’t need a lot of highfalutin fanfare to be considered fashion-forward.
They transcend the need for trendy treatment, exuding gobs of style just in the process of being. The beautiful shape. The rich green color. The way you have to slowly pluck it, leaf by leaf, to reach its succulent center.
| Pick a nonaluminum pot that’s wide and deep enough to accommodate your artichokes (single layer, with their plump shoulders snuggled up against each other for stability). Fill the pot with just enough water to reach about 1/3 up the sides of the artichokes when they’re sitting in the pot. To the water add 5 or 6 cloves of coarsely chopped fresh garlic, 5 or 6 peppercorns (if you have them), and a 1/4-inch thick slice of fresh lemon (peel and innards), and about 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Feel free to add some fresh herbs while you’re at it; I like lemon thyme and oregano, for example. Trim your artichokes by slicing off all but about 1/2-inch of the stem end, then trim away the upper inch of the pointy end to create a flat surface (sort of like a buzz-top haircut). Place the artichokes side by side in the pot, stem-end up (buzz-top side down). Now, this move is contrary to how many cooks treat their artichokes, I know. Many like to cook artichokes stem end down. But I feel that you are less likely to have a soggy heart if you keep that stem-side up and out of the water. Place the pot over high heat and bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook just until the stem end tests tender by piercing with a sharp knife or fork. Depending on the size of your artichokes, this will take anywhere from 25 minutes for medium to medium-large, to 45 minutes for large to jumbo. To double check for doneness, remove one of the artichokes with tongs (they’re very hot!), turn it over on the counter and pluck one of the leaves near the center. If it comes out easily and the flesh is tender, they’re done. That’s it. You can serve immediately, while hot, or at room temperature, or chilled. To prepare a platter of them for an appetizer, feel free to cook them up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerate. |
For dipping purposes, you’ve got your mayonnaise or melted butter, or maybe just a light vinaigrette. But that’s all you really need to wow a roomful of guests.
In fact, my favorite bring-along party appetizer is a platter of freshly cooked artichokes. Simple to make (the night before is just dandy, then they can chill all day leading up to the event), and an instant hit. At least amongst the artichoke-lovers in the group.
There are always a few who claim that they “just don’t get it,” which always thrills the thistle devotees, happy to have fewer folks competing for their share of the heart.
Well, this is the time of year when they’re becoming more plentiful and hence, affordable. Just make sure the quality is good, because California has seen some pretty goofy weather this winter.
To pick the absolute freshest specimens, administer my squeeze-and-squeak test: Using both hands, bring one to your ear and gently press around the circumference with your fingers; a truly fresh artichoke will emit a delicate little squeak.
My preferred method for cooking artichokes is simply in a pot, with a little bit of water.
Which leads to my preferred method for eating, which is simply, one petal at a time.
Various dips add to the experience, of course. So I thought it would be fun to provide you with some of my favorite sidekicks. From a simple mayonnaise to an elegant Hollandaise, I like them all, so you choose the level of effort you want to put into the process and go from there.
Happy spring and bon appetit.
From one of my favorite produce-cookery books, “Greene on Greens,” by the late Bert Greene, here are three wonderful ways to make artichoke dips.
Green mayonnaise: Blend together 1/2 cup chopped fresh dill (or chives or tarragon) with 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise.
Tomato mayonnaise: Peel, seed and mince 1 large tomato. Place it in a saucepan with 1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil, 1/4 teaspoon sugar and 1/4 cup chicken broth, and simmer over medium heat until very, very thick. Cool, and combine with 2 tablespoons sour cream and 1 cup mayonnaise.
Curry mayonnaise: Add 2 tablespoons curry powder, 1 teaspoon turmeric, and 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar to 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise. Stir in 2 teaspoons rinsed capers.
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This is a somewhat rich accessory to cold artichokes. But very delicious.
1cup good quality mayonnaise
1/2cup sour cream
1/2cup cooked Dungeness crabmeat
1/4cup chopped fresh dill
1tablespoon minced shallots
1teaspoon lime juice
Dash of hot pepper sauce ( like Tabasco)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Whisk together the mayonnaise and sour cream. Stir in the crab, dill, shallots, lime juice, hot pepper sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Chill thoroughly before serving. Makes about 12/3 cups.
Adapted from “Greene on Greens,” by Bert Greene
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The trick that makes this elegant and flavorful sauce relatively food-proof is the increment of frozen butter, added bit by bit as the eggs and lemon juice blend. Hollandaise will keep in a double boiler half filled with warm – not boiling – water for about half an hour before serving.
3egg yolks
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2teaspoon Dijon mustard
3/4cup unsalted butter, frozen
Dash of hot pepper sauce
Pinch of ground white pepper
Salt
Vigorously whisk together the egg yolks with the lemon juice in the top of a double boiler. Place the beaten mixture over simmering water; stir in the mustard. Cut the butter into eight pieces. Whisk the butter into the egg yolk mixture, one piece at a time. Stir well after each addition. Stir in the hot pepper sauce, white pepper, and salt to taste.
Makes about 1/2 cup.
1/2cup mayonnaise
1/2cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/4cup buttermilk
1/4cup sour cream
3tablespoons red or white wine vinegar, or to taste
2teaspoons Dijon mustard, or to taste
1/2teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Salt to taste
Whisk together the mayonnaise, Parmesan, buttermilk, sour cream, vinegar, Dijon mustard and black pepper. Taste for seasoning, adding salt if necessary, along with additional mustard, pepper or vinegar, if desired. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to develop and meld.
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This dressing is based on one of Gathering Together Farm’s vinaigrettes.
1/4cup balsamic vinegar
1/4cup red wine vinegar
2teaspoons honey
2teaspoons Dijon mustard
1teaspoon soy sauce or Kikkoman Tempura sauce (the tempura sauce is not easy to find, but it is available)
1/2teaspoon black bean garlic sauce (available in the Asian food section of most supermarkets)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1cup extra-virgin olive oil
Combine vinegars, honey, mustard, tempura sauce, black bean sauce, salt and pepper. Add olive oil. Adjust seasonings.
Makes 2 cups.
This is a wonderful blue cheese dressing, compliments of Eugene-based cookbook author, Maryana Vollstedt.
1/2cup mayonnaise
1/4cup buttermilk
1/4cup sour cream
1tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/4teaspoon dried mustard
1/4teaspoon salt
1/8teaspoon white pepper
1/2cup crumbled blue cheese
In small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, buttermilk, sour cream and vinegar. Add the mustard, salt and pepper and whisk again. Stir in the blue cheese. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to develop and meld.
Makes about 12/3 cups.
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This is a simple vinaigrette to prepare, and is a delicious accompaniment to artichokes. I like to make a big batch of it to have on hand during my major artichoke phase. It also makes a great marinade (equal portions of the dressing and soy sauce) for chicken, pork and beef.
The Dominguez House Dressing
2/3cup wine vinegar
1tablespoon Dijon mustard
4large cloves garlic, mashed
2teaspoons salt
1/2teaspoon sugar
1/2teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1cup each extra-virgin olive oil, other vegetable oil (such as canola, corn or saffola)
Whisk together the vinegar, mustard, garlic, salt, sugar, and pepper. Whisk in the oils, then pour the mixture into your storage bottle. Makes scant 3 cups of dressing.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd @proaxis.com.
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