By CHRISTINA HARPER
Herald Writer
There’s a touch of Hawaii in the secret sauce at the Freeland Cafe on Whidbey Island.
Virina Bryant, 71, originally from Maui, has kept the flavor of her native food evident on the menu but is hush-hush about ingredients in her homemade concoctions.
Bryant cooks along with three of her daughters, Lani Bryant, 35; Petite Bryant-Hunt, 42; and Verity Bryant-Sensano, 34; who have a hand in both the business and the kitchen.
"There’s a great atmosphere in kitchen most of the time," Bryant said.
Bryant’s greatest satisfaction is preparing food and knowing that people enjoy it, she said.
This is especially true during special occasions at the Freeland Cafe such as New Year’s Eve, when an open house is given to thank customers. Much preparation is needed for the event with offerings of sushi, teriyaki and a secret rumaki of chestnuts wrapped in chicken liver and bacon, recipes Bryant has made for years.
Instead of relying on family for cooking tips, Bryant went to neighbors in Maui and ask how to flavor foods and what ingredients to use.
"My mother didn’t know how to cook; she just knew how to boil things," she said.
Gathering information paid off: At 14, Bryant began cooking and catering in restaurants in Hawaii. Later she moved to Snohomish County, bringing a host of Hawaiian recipes and presenting banquet-style food that can still be enjoyed at the Freeland Cafe once a month.
Bryant and her husband, who worked for Boeing, bought the cafe in 1974. Twenty years later, Bryant’s daughters formed Sistas Inc. and took over the restaurant business.
The sisters decided to remodel the cafe, which had been a house with a tiny kitchen. In fact, the family jokes that the bar was a broom closet, Bryant said.
When the restaurant was closed, customers who got anxious would leave messages on the answering machine, Bryant said: "I need a Teri burger. When are you opening up?"
Coffee cups in cubbyholes signify how many regular customers keep the restaurant the "hometown cafe," Petite Bryant-Hunt said.
"People say we treat them like family," she said.
The grueling schedule of 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. seven days a week, with the lounge open until midnight doesn’t slow any of the family down because they work well together and have a longtime, solid staff. But no one is safe from being nabbed when visiting.
"Whatever husband is around is asked to help," Virina Bryant said.
During her time away from the restaurant Virina Bryant catches up with housework. Lani Bryant plays softball although her pregnancy has that activity on hold, Verity Bryant-Sensano likes to sing and all the daughters do hula dancing.
The Bryants know their customers’ birthdays and have seen people get married, then bring their children to the restaurant, then the children grow up and come in themselves, keeping the Freeland Cafe a tradition of sorts.
"This is what I always wanted to do," Bryant said. "It’s my life dream."
Bryants’ recipe for success
Their restaurant: The Freeland Cafe, 1642 East Main St., Freeland; 360-331-9945; on the Web at www.whidbey.com/freelandcafe/.
Favorite food: Virina Bryant’s favorite food is ahi sashimi; Lani Bryant favors traditional Thanksgiving dinner fare.
Favorite kitchen tool: As with a lot of chefs, the Bryants like a good, sharp knife.
Favorite cookbook: Virina Bryant likes "Favorite Recipes of America" (Favorite Recipes Press), the 1968 version she still uses in the kitchen. Lani Bryant’s favorite chef is Virina, and they both like Sam Choy.
Chef’s tip: Turn leftovers into saimin broth: Bring 3 gallons water and 1 gallon shrimp shells to a boil for 1 hour. Add two leeks and leftover celery tops. Bring to a boil again for 2 hours. Season with beef base to taste. Strain out shells and vegetables. Serve over Chinese egg noodles and garnish with hard-boiled eggs, barbecued pork and green onions. Freeze any remaining broth. Virina Bryant says it’s great for colds and whatever ails you.
Korean Short Ribs
4pounds beef short ribs, thin cut
1cup of shoyu (soy sauce)
2tablespoons brown sugar
4cloves minced garlic
4green onions chopped
2tablespoons sesame oil
Crushed red pepper to taste
Mix all ingredients except ribs; pour over ribs and marinate 4 to 5 hours or overnight.
Cook ribs on an outside barbecue for 10 to 15 minutes or broil in the oven at 435 degrees until done.
Serve with steamed rice and cucumber salad (namasu).
Makes 4 servings.
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
