Made from a blend of up to 13 grape varieties, the full-bodied Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France’s most affordable great red wine, from can compete in mellow complexity and aging ability with the top wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux, at much lower prices (starting at $25).
Offering ultra-ripe, complex flavors of black fruit, pepper, Provencal herbs and cherry brandy, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which comes from the southern Rhone valley, matches especially well with recipes of beef, duck and goose. After dinner, it’s one of the few dry reds that has the richness to be sipped with cheese or semisweet chocolate desserts.
Cotes-du-Rhone and Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, most of which is made in vineyards surrounding Chateauneuf-du-Pape, also can offer a good deal of style. These wines are even more affordable. (Prices start at about $10.)
Prices are approximate. In addition to the contact information listed, resources for finding wines include www.winesearcher.com and www.wineaccess.com. Call stores to verify availability.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Chateau Mont Thabor 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($36): Imbued with great perfume and intensity, this sumptuous wine rings with the flavors of ripe cherries, licorice and roasted Provencal herbs all the way through the long finish. An exceptional wine at its peak.
Domaine Berthet-Rayne 2005/2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($25): A joy to drink now even though still young; spicy on the nose, with pure, densely packed fruit on the palate. Great value.
Patrick Lesec 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pierres Dorees ($45); Patrick Lesec 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape les Galets Blonds ($54): I slightly prefer the Pierres Dorees’ bottling over the more expensive Galets Blonds, but both are outstanding, with subtle oak and violet aromas and exceptionally deep fruit flavors.
Domaine Grand Veneur (Alain Jaume) 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($44); Alain Jaume 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($37): Focused, concentrated and long, the 2004 Grand Veneur offers currant and plum flavors highlighted by notes of wild herbs and anise. The 2003 Alain Jaume, from the same producer, offers the riper, more exotic fruit of that vintage.
Domaine de Monpertuis 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($41): Full-bodied, concentrated and deeply fruity, with exotic, complex notes of wild herbs and cherry brandy in the bouquet.
Les Cailloux 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($44): Even better than the delectable 2003, with a deep purple color, spice-box aromas of herbs and earth, and opulent flavors of blackberries and ground pepper with a hint of fig.
Cotes-du-Rhone and Cotes-du-Rhone Villages
Paul Jaboulet Aine 2005 Cotes-du-Rhone Parallele 45 ($12): Bright, fleshy fruit with good grip on the finish.
J.L. Chave Selection 2004/2003 Cotes-du-Rhone Mon Coeur ($19): Get a taste of the legendary Chave Hermitage style for about one-20th the price.
Selection Laurence Feraud Seguret 2005 ($15; Hand Picked Selections, john.heinel@handpickedselections.com): This Seguret packs a lot of flavor for the price.
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