BOTHELL -Frida Kahlo, one of Mexico’s most noted painters and the subject of the 2002 film “Frida,” was as bold as her paintings, and multiple portraits of her decorate the royal blue and gold dining room of Frida’s.
The location of this small restaurant, in the Albertson’s shopping center, detracts from its dynamic theme of honoring an eclectic 20th-century painter and serving equally exciting dishes from Mexico.
This is not your usual taco-burrito-enchilada dinner place. Co-owners Jose and Orocio Pina serve regional cuisine from Mexico. The brother-sister duo created the menu that honors the surrealist painter with unusual choices such as a quesadilla made with a hand-tossed tortilla stuffed with Asadero cheese and rose petals topped with a strawberry Jamaican rum sauce ($8.95).
On my recent visit, I couldn’t decide between the grilled pork chop marinated in wine and stuffed with carrots, bacon and prunes, and topped with a papaya salsa ($13.95) or the grilled beef tenderloin medallions marinated in a vinaigrette salsa and finished with a sauce made from six different chilies ($15.95).
“You have to start somewhere, and then you can enjoy them all,” said Jose Pina, who was waiting tables while his sister visited Mexico to bring back new recipes for the restaurant.
I gave up and ordered the halibut wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed in white wine with red bell peppers, onions, green olives, tomatoes and sprigs of cilantro ($15.95). The fish came with a cone-shaped serving of rice and a cabbage leaf filled with steamed zucchini and corn accented with tomatoes and onions. This was an excellent starting point. The subtly flavored halibut flaked perfectly, indicating that it wasn’t overcooked. In fact, everything on my plate was expertly prepared and each bite was a tasting adventure.
I also relished an order of tostadita de caviar ($9.95), which looked like edible art. The appetizer, a Monterrey-area dish, starts with a bite-sized tostada, then stacked with refried beans, cheese and black caviar. It comes with a fruit salsa that adds sweetness and a little red chili heat. It was superb, and I paired it with a gold margarita ($5.75). The margarita was good, but what’s truly impressive is the display of tequila that serves as a divider between the bar and dining room. Here more than 280 bottles of tequila, cognac and wine stretch floor to ceiling. The wines are from Latin America and Spain.
Tequila is served in the Mexican tradition with sangrita, which is much like a bloody Mary, on the side as a chaser. Tequila and cognac prices range from $8 to $110.
Although Frida’s is a family restaurant with a children’s menu that offers the standard taco, burrito and enchilada selections, only couples filled the dining room on my Saturday night visit. And I agreed that this is an excellent adult escape.
If you didn’t see the movie “Frida” in the theater, consider renting it. It chronicles the life of Kahlo and her husband, Diego Rivera, the Mexican muralist. The two had a complex relationship, which shows in her art and inspires the dishes at this small restaurant.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Frida’s
3226 132nd St. SE, No. 108, Bothell; 425-357-8606
Specialty: Mexican
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Lunch menu 11 a.m.-p.m., Monday through Friday
Price range: moderate to expensive
Liquor: full bar
Smoking: non-smoking
Reservations: recommended
Disabled accessibility: easy access
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Frida’s
3226 132nd St. SE, No. 108, Bothell; 425-357-8606
Specialty: Mexican
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Lunch menu 11 a.m.-p.m., Monday through Friday
Price range: moderate to expensive
Liquor: full bar
Smoking: non-smoking
Reservations: recommended
Disabled accessibility: easy access
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
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