Standing on the ridge at Buck Creek Pass, we watched huge plumes of smoke billow up from behind the mountain around which our trail curved. Our path seemed to be blocked by a forest fire.
My car waited at the White River trailhead… but how could we safely get through to it?
Five days earlier, in early September, Linda Rostad and I had begun our adventure. Our plan was to circle Glacier Peak, a 10,541-foot volcano that last erupted 12,000 years ago.
Glacier Peak doesn’t stand out alone like Mount Baker or Mount Rainier. Instead, the remote volcano is hidden within a rugged patch of lesser peaks between Darrington and Lake Chelan. Nevertheless, hikers who get close to it are struck by its beauty.
We had a variety of trails to choose from for our loop, since many trails wind through valleys and along ridges surrounding the mountain, including a section of the Pacific Crest Trail.
Linda and I started up the Indian Creek Trail just after sunrise on a blue-sky morning. The dusty path wound through old growth cedar along the White River northwest of Lake Wenatchee. The trail crosses Indian Creek and turns up the valley to the ridge crest.
We reached the Pacific Crest Trail by late afternoon and enjoyed the scent of mountain huckleberries as we made our way north to our first night’s camp at White Pass.
On our second morning, we ascended a gentle grade to Red Pass through meadows above the tree line. The views were spectacular to the south and west, including a view of Mount Rainier. A haze of smoke from forest fires hung on the eastern horizon.
We rounded the corner at Red Pass and descended through a moonscape of rocks sparkling with mica. Our approach caused fat marmots to scamper for cover.
Our camp on the second night was at Kennedy Creek, which we planned to ford at first light, when the water level would be the lowest. Kennedy Creek is milky from glacier melt, so the riverbed cannot be seen and the water flows swiftly.
As we attempted the crossing the next morning, Linda got twirled around by the water and sat down in it. When it was my turn to cross, I placed my feet carefully and forcefully, and was greatly relieved when I reached the other side.
Gathering clouds sprinkled on us now and then, keeping us from drying out as we made our way up to Fire Creek Pass, but we were able to dry our gear on the far side at Mica Lake.
For this day and the next we continued around the west and north sides of the volcano.
We greeted the fifth day with great anticipation. This was the day we were going to start the high route from Buck Creek Pass through the Napeequa Valley to Boulder Pass.
We quickly hiked up the Pacific Crest Trail to the junction of the trail up Middle Ridge. As we climbed the ridge, we began to smell and then see smoke to the east and our anticipation turned to apprehension.
At Buck Creek Pass, billowing plumes of smoke seemed to be directly in our path. Fastened to a signpost, a notice instructed us to leave the area and warned that we might not find transportation at the Trinity trailhead. We also found a zippered plastic bag containing fire closure maps in the rocks at its base.
After a discussion of our options and a brief rest, we returned the way we had come — back down to the Pacific Crest Trail.
We decided to head to Stehekin, on the north end of Lake Chelan. A bus goes from the trail at High Bridge into the town.
On the way, we met a ranger doing a fire closure check to clear the area. She took our names and phone numbers and promised to call our families with our new destination when she got out.
Back on the Pacific Crest Trail, we continued north over Suiattle Pass to a campsite along Agnes Creek.
We left camp in the early morning, descending the steep trail through old-growth forest and hurrying to our bus stop.
The bus, which costs $6 one way, took us about 12 miles into Stehekin, first stopping at the famous bakery, where we bought some much-appreciated snacks and clean T-shirts.
All of the hotel rooms in Stehekin were taken, so we used the free public shower, called home on the satellite phone, ate a real meal at the restaurant, and slept in the campground.
The boat to Chelan only takes cash and we did not have enough. A "trail angel" who worked at the restaurant came to our aid and loaned each of us the $28.50 needed for the two-hour boat ride. Two fellow passengers on the boat gave us a ride to Preston, where we met our families, who had retrieved my car.
In seven days we backpacked more than 90 miles. Winter snows will smother the summer fires, and the Napeequa will be there for us next year.
Linda Bakkar of Lynnwood and Linda Rostad of Redmond are avid long distance hikers and backpackers. They plan to hike all 2,650 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail in 2008.
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