Good pizza that passes the no-olive test

  • By Kathy Tussing Herald Writer
  • Thursday, August 28, 2008 5:27pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

MARYSVILLE — Though technically not a restaurant, Garlic Jim’s Famous Gourmet Pizza franchises have sprouted across Snohomish County since the Everett-based company was founded in 2004 — including a new outlet that opened this week between Lake Stevens and Snohomish.

Garlic Jim’s offers “gourmet specialty pizza” for pickup or delivery at locations including Bothell/Woodinville, Marysville, Mill Creek, Monroe and Mukilteo. Another is set to open soon in Edmonds.

To appeal to the more discriminating pizza lover, the company says, toppings on Garlic Jim’s pizzas include artichoke hearts, roasted corn, cashews, coconut, slivered almonds, bacon and roasted garlic. The company’s literature emphasizes things like whole-milk mozzarella cheese, hand-tossed crust (with added ingredients) and fresh-packed sauce.

Now, to some people, pizza preference is almost as hotly debated as religion or politics. The disagreements begin with the crust — thick? thin? deep-dish? — and proceed from there. So to suggest that any pizza is better than any other is just asking for trouble.

And to compare a Garlic Jim’s “Spinach Artichoke Pie” (fresh spinach, marinated artichoke hearts, roasted garlic, fresh basil and red onions on a garlic-infused olive oil base) with Brand X’s basic pepperoni pizza wouldn’t exactly be fair, either.

So for our late lunch on Saturday, we ordered a medium Garlic Jim’s Ultimate (pepperoni, Canadian bacon, spicy Italian sausage, red onions, mushrooms, green peppers, extra cheese; hold the black olives) and a medium Jim’s Veggie (green peppers, mushrooms, tomatoes, red onions; again, hold the black olives), both on hand-thrown thick crust with classic red sauce ($15.99 and $15.49, respectively).

Waiting for our order at a counter at the Marysville Garlic Jim’s in Safeway Plaza at State and Grove streets, we could enjoy the movie playing on two small screens (I think it was the animated “Surf’s Up”) and admire pizza-slice construction paper art on the wall sent as a thank-you from the P2 Learning Institute and Preschool.

Despite the visual distractions, the pervasive smell of garlic was making us hungrier by the minute. When our order was ready, we rushed out to the car and managed the short drive home before attacking the pies.

Remember the “hold the black olives” on our order? That’s to test to see whether the pizzas truly are assembled to order (and because I don’t like black olives). Garlic Jim’s passed the test — no black olives anywhere. You’d be surprised how many don’t pass this simple test.

The taste of both the meaty and veggie pizzas was very good. We agreed that the Garlic Jim’s thick crust was tastier than most, And although I am conditioned to seek out part-skim mozzarella from years of diets, I figured the whole-milk mozzarella probably was offset somewhat by all the garlic. This is not a first-date pizza — or else, remember the chewing gum!

Besides the garlic, the ingredient that captured my dining companion’s attention most was the spicy Italian sausage; it was, indeed, spicy, but very good. I most noticed the red onions; they added a nice taste and texture to both pizzas.

Garlic Jim’s pizzas are a bit more expensive than some others, but they are also more filling, by far. You won’t be able to finish off as many pieces as you’re used to, believe me.

Which is fine, because Garlic Jim’s passed the final test too: It’s great cold the next morning.

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