Hearty leek soup a great winter filler

When the fruit trees stand bare in the cold, hard earth and lovely summer tomatoes are a fanciful memory, winter is in the air.

It’s a season of intense contrasts, from vigorous outdoor activities such as cross-country skiing, to intimate conversations by a roaring fire.

The body’s inner clock is ticking away, keeping track of the shorter days and frosty nights.

We’re also mindful of the fact that Christmas is one short week away. Most of us are still trying to gather as many special friends as possible around the table between now and New Year’s. But it would be lovely to do so with as little stress on the spirit as possible.

Enter soups and stews. Winter, after all, is one-pot cooking season. And because winter soups and stews are as much nourishment for the soul as the body, they fit the bill right now, providing both hearty flavor and ease of preparation.

Even if you don’t do all those correct presoup and stew things, such as stockpiling leftover bones and vegetable trimmings in the freezer, you can still throw together a powerful pot.

The winter leek

One of the vegetables that Mother Nature presents to us this time of year is the leek.

Through the ages, leeks have been associated with cold-weather recipes: simmering stews and hearty soups.

Like other members of the allium family, all it takes to tame their fiery flavor is a little bit of heat and time — two commodities that are in plentiful supply in most winter kitchens.

To select the best leeks, look for straight, cylindrical stalks with clean bases.

At home, wash the leeks thoroughly and cut off the roots. Then slice each leek once from the green end almost to the base. Fan the two sections apart and pass the leek through running water to remove all the grit that has accumulated.

Here’s a steamy entree soup to help you enjoy the leek bounty. The soup is patterned after the classic French onion soup au gratin, but can be assembled in short order.

Leek soup au gratin

6tablespoons butter

4cups thinly sliced leek rings (white and pale green portions only)

1quart canned beef broth

2-3 tablespoons dry sherry, or 1-2 tablespoons brandy

1/4teaspoon white pepper

1/4teaspoon salt

6toasted French bread croutons (see below)

2cups each coarsely grated Jarlsburg cheese and Monterey jack cheese

In a large pot, melt the butter and saute the leeks over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the broth, sherry, pepper and salt, and simmer for another 10 minutes to blend the flavors. Adjust the seasonings and ladle the soup into 6 ovenproof soup bowls.

Add the French bread croutons, sprinkle each bowl with 1/3 cup Monterey jack cheese, then top with 1/3 cup Jarlsburg. Place the bowls under the broiler until the cheeses melt and turn slightly golden, about 30 seconds. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings.

Toasted French bread croutons: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Place 6 slices of French bread cut 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick on a baking sheet. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the bread is thoroughly dried out and lightly golden.

About halfway through the process, spread both sides of each slice with a small amount of butter. These can be prepared several hours ahead.

I created this recipe a few Decembers ago, in the midst of the holiday season. It’s fast and tasty.

My original rendition used yellow onions instead of leeks, which contributes a slightly different flavor — use whatever you desire.

For a version including meat, check the bottom of the recipe.

Black bean chili with leeks

1cup chopped leeks

1/2cup chopped celery

4cloves finely minced garlic

1tablespoon olive oil

1(15 ounce) can black beans, with the liquid

1(14 1/2 ounce) can of diced tomatoes and jalapenos with Mexican seasoning

2tablespoons chopped green chiles (either fresh Anaheim or canned)

2tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2/3cup double-strength canned beef broth

2teaspoons each chili powder and cumin powder

Garnish suggestions: diced avocado and tomato, sour cream, shredded cheese, chopped green onions

In a large, heavy saucepan, saute the leeks, celery and garlic in the olive oil over medium heat until the leeks are softened. Stir in the black beans, tomatoes, chilies, cilantro, beef broth and cumin, and simmer gently, uncovered, about 15 to 20 minutes, or until the mixture has thickened and the flavors have developed.

Pass the garnishes.

Meat version: 1 pound of ground chicken, turkey or beef can be added when you’re sauteeing the vegetables. Just double the tomatoes, broth and chilies, and adjust the seasonings to taste.

Makes 3 to 4 servings, 4 to 5 for the meat version; the recipe can easily be doubled.

Here’s another speedy-yet-tasty soup to assemble during the busy days of December.

Italian sausage and leek soup

11/2pound Italian sauasage, removed from casings and cut into 1-inch slices

3cloves garlic, peeled and minced

3large leeks (about 1 1/2 inches in diameter; white portion and 2 inches of green), well rinsed and coarsely chopped

3stalks celery, chopped

1sweet bell pepper, seeded and chopped

1(16 ounce) can of Roma tomatoes

7cups canned beef broth

1cup “drinkable” dry red wine, such as a syrah or pinot noir

2teaspoons dried basil (or 11/2 tablespoons fresh basil)

1/2teaspoon dried thyme (or 1 teaspoon fresh)

3Yukon gold potatoes, diced

1cup macaroni pasta, uncooked

Salt and pepper to taste

Parmesan cheese

In a large pot, brown sausage over medium-high heat; drain fat.

Add garlic, leeks, celery, and bell pepper and saute until the leeks are limp. Stir in the tomatoes, breaking them up with a spoon or potato masher. Add broth, wine, basil, and thyme. Simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes. Add the potatoes, macaroni, salt and pepper and continue cooking until the potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes.

You may have to add additional water toward the end to reach desired “soupiness.”

Sprinkle each serving with Parmesan cheese. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. E-mail janrd@proaxis.com.