Hearty soups stand up to NW treks

  • By Jan Roberts-Dominguez / Special to The Herald
  • Tuesday, February 7, 2006 9:00pm
  • Life

At the trailhead, while ski bindings are being adjusted and day packs filled, the brisk Cascade air of the land I love overtakes my senses. Those pesky urban woes, so imperative only an hour ago, are no match for the grand old firs and snowy peaks.

Indeed, winter in the Pacific Northwest is the ultimate tonic for those who are drawn to the natural world. From drives through its wine country, to snowshoe treks and cross-country ski expeditions, excuses abound to get outside in this gorgeous corner of the world.

And since appetites only expand in the fresh air, familiarity with cuisine that will stand up to the absence of walls is not exactly an optional social grace in these parts.

The following soups meet those minimal requirements: tried-and-true recipes that have fortified the spirits of all who’ve shared the road (or trail) to adventure with me in this wonderful place.

Tips for autumn treks

* When the weather’s chilly, I prefer serving soup in mugs that help retain heat. My other preference is for real wine glasses, which seem to make the wine taste even better. Thus, I keep an “autumn pack” fully loaded and ready to go with old mugs and wine glasses that I’m not emotionally attached to; an eclectic collection gathered from thrift shops and the Goodwill that only cost me about 25 cents a piece. If they don’t survive the adventure, well, no loss.

* Make enough soup so some can be frozen for an impromptu picnic later on this fall or winter.

* Last stop as you head out of town? Well, since all of our fabulous local artisan breads are baked and delivered to markets in the morning, give yourself enough time to grab a loaf.

Here’s a hearty soup to fill that Thermos. It’s delectable, hearty-rich and cheesy, so it really hits the spot on these cool winter nights. Its cheesiness is a natural with wine, and its nose-warming nature really hits the spot when sitting out, enjoying the countryside this time of year.

Potato cheese soup

1 quart chicken broth (homemade or canned)

21/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled, coarsely chopped

2 cups chopped green onions, whites and about half the green stalks

1 quart half-and-half

1/4 cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

6 ounces shredded Swiss cheese

6 ounces shredded cheddar cheese

1/2 cup good-quality ale (or dry white wine, such as an Oregon pinot blanc or chardonnay)

In a heavy-bottomed soup pot bring the chicken broth to a boil. Add the potatoes and simmer for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are very soft. Add the green onions and remove the pot from the heat. Add the half-and-half or milk to the pot.

Puree the potato-broth mixture in a blender or food processor (you will have to do this in batches; when blending, fill the container only half full and cover the lid with a dish towel because the soup “spurts” quite violently as it’s being blended). Return the puree to the pot. Stir in the soy sauce and pepper and slowly bring the soup back to a simmer.

Make-ahead tip: the soup can be prepared to this point up to 48 hours ahead and refrigerated, or prepared and frozen for 3 months.

When ready to serve or pack into a Thermos, proceed with the recipe by placing the pot back on the burner, over medium heat. When the soup begins to simmer, stir in the grated cheeses gradually, a hand-full at a time. Now gently whisk in the wine, sherry or beer. Yields 8 servings.

Ham hocks are one of the true “secret ingredients” of cooking. They impart so much flavor and texture, and it’s amazing that they aren’t more widely used. Great split pea soup can be made without them, but incredible split pea soup is made possible by their inclusion.

Split pea soup with ham hocks

18 cups water

4 cups (2 pounds) uncooked split peas, washed and checked for stones

2 pounds smoked ham hocks

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 carrot, finely chopped

2 onions, finely chopped

10 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and minced

4 bay leaves

1 tablespoon dried marjoram (or 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh)

1 tablespoon dried basil (or 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh)

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste (the ham hocks are salty, so salt judiciously)

In a heavy-bottomed soup pot, bring 10 cups of the water to a boil and add the split peas. Cover and simmer over low heat for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the peas break down and dissolve. Stir the pot periodically to prevent sticking and burning. If the water seems to disappear, add a little more, enough to cover the peas.

At the same time, in a separate pot, bring the remaining 8 cups water to a boil, add the ham hocks, cover and simmer for 2 hours. Strain the water and add it to the split peas after they have dissolved. Pick the meat off the hocks and discard the bones and fat. Chop the meat and add it to the split peas and water. Continue cooking over low heat.

While the peas and hocks are cooking, heat the oil in a frying pan and saute the carrot, onion and garlic until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves, marjoram and basil, stir for 1 more minute and remove the pot from the heat.

When the split peas have broken down, add the salt, pepper and carrot/onion mixture. The soup should be thick and creamy. Taste, adjust the seasonings and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. May be served immediately, or prepared up to 2 days ahead, refrigerated, and reheated. Makes 8 generous servings.

Recipe adapted from “Sacramental Magic in a Small-Town Cafe,” by Brother Peter Reinhart

This is an extremely satisfying soup to have on hand for winter trek or tour through the wine country. It freezes and reheats very nicely.

White bean, bacon and potato soup

1 1/2 cups dried cannellini beans, sorted and rinsed

1/4 pound bacon, diced

1cup finely chopped onion

1 cup finely chopped red bell pepper

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

3 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 cup dry sherry

7 cups chicken broth

2 cups cubed Yukon Gold potatoes (cut in 1/2-inch cubes)

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

Salt to taste

Parmesan cheese for garnish

Soak the beans for at least 24 hours in a large bowl of water; drain.

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, over medium-high heat, saute the bacon until browned. Reduce the heat to medium-low, remove the bacon pieces with a slotted spoon and set aside, then pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon drippings. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic to the bacon drippings and saute until the onion is softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Pour in the sherry and deglaze the bottom of the pot by stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot to dissolve the cooked-on food particles, and cooking until the sherry has reduced by half.

Add the chicken broth, and the soaked and drained beans, and cook for 15 minutes. Add the potato cubes, rosemary, thyme, and pepper, and continue cooking until the potatoes and beans are tender, about another 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in the bacon, and adjust the seasonings by adding salt to taste and additional pepper if needed. Serve with Parmesan cheese.

May be prepared up to 2 days ahead, refrigerated, and reheated before serving, or frozen for 3 months. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.

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