Here’s a real diner for big appetites

SNOHOMISH – On the first weekend of the new state law that prohibits smoking in public places, my meal was interrupted by a server banging on the men’s room door and yelling, “No smoking in the bathroom.”

I hadn’t heard those words since high school.

According to my dining companion, who surveyed the men’s room for disability access, burn marks are visible around the fan at the Clearview Cafe &Lounge. Seems to me these aren’t promising signs for an easy transition to smoke-free buildings.

Each entrance to the Clearview Cafe has signs announcing it’s a smoke-free establishment. But, because it’s been around for a while, the smell of smoke still lingers in the bar area. Or maybe not. After all, the bar that seats about 12 is next to the restrooms.

Never mind. The important things to know about the Clearview Cafe are that this place isn’t retro-’50s with red vinyl and chrome. It’s an original from that era. It’s neat and clean, serves down-home honest food and is a favorite of the locals.

The Friday night my friend and I visited, we were impressed with the orderliness of the dining room. Yes, supplies are packed into the small prep area behind the counter. For example, rows of glasses sit on trays between the wine bottles and a cooler, but the glasses gleam.

While waiting for our order, my friend pointed out that there are multiple layers of paint on the window frame but it’s not chipped. He, like many of the other customers the night we visited, work in the construction trades, and the menu’s geared for big appetites that like simple dishes.

The Clearview Cafe serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The breakfast menu includes all our favorites, including pancakes, French toast, omelets and plates of eggs, hash browns and toast ($4.25 to $9.95). For lunch, there are hot and cold sandwiches and burgers ($5.75 to $8.25). After 4 p.m., dinner is served and dishes include chicken fried steak, pot roast, meatloaf, spaghetti, fish and chips and steaks ($9.95 to $17.95).

My friend considered the Salisbury steak dinner ($10.95) but ordered a Western dip ($7.25). It’s served with a cup of au jus, fries, tossed or potato salad or soup. He chose the cabbage patch soup.

That night’s special, posted on the whiteboard, caught my attention and didn’t let go: prime rib, baked potato, and soup or salad. I asked for a salad, the butter and sour cream on the side and my prime rib medium rare.

My dining companion rated his dinner an “A.” The burger was tasty and served on a toasted roll with plenty of grilled onions. He liked the soup so much, he didn’t offer extra spoonfuls to me. I rated my dinner an “A-.” Our server was attentive without being overbearing. Everything was served as I requested. The potato and salad tasted just like I expected, but I took points off for the prime rib being a tad tough and the horseradish sauce being too mild. It didn’t make my nose burn.

But neither did the smoke from the men’s room.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.