It’s downhill after pico de gallo

  • By Anna Poole / Herald Restaurant Critic
  • Thursday, December 1, 2005 9:00pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

SNOHOMISH – Not being able to see some of our relatives during the upcoming holidays prompted us to meet for Sunday dinner. One member of our party suggested Todo Mexico in the historic district because she really likes the pico de gallo.

Why not? There are worse reasons to select a restaurant.

My dinner companion and I arrived ahead of the rest of our party so we enjoyed house margaritas ($4.25 each) during our short wait. Pico de gallo and salsa arrived at our table before the margaritas, and I added an order of guacamole ($2.95) to round out the dips.

1101 First St., Snohomish; 360-862-0210

Specialty: Mexican

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

Price range: moderate

Liquor: full bar

Smoking: not permitted

Vegetarian: variety

Reservations: recommended for parties of six or more

Disabled accessibility: easy access

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa

The chunks of avocado and garlic announced that the guacamole was freshly made, not frozen. The salsa was also fresh with just the right amount of zing to let us know we were eating Mexican food without taking our breath away. The pico de gallo’s chopped tomatoes, onions, garlic and cilantro were just as fresh, and one bite told me why it was a family favorite. I did get a few bites of it before the rest of the family arrived. What I didn’t get was whole chips to use as scoops. Our basket was filled with pieces and slivers. While we caught up on family news, we asked for a second round of pico de gallo, salsa and “whole chips,” pointing out the pieces. More pico de gallo, salsa and pieces of chips arrived.

We gave up and ordered dinner.

My dinner companion and I selected small combination plates ($9.95), which come with rice and refried or whole pinto beans. Choices include burritos, chimichangas, tacos, chili relleno and tostados in 12 different combinations.

I had a cheese enchilada and a tamale. He chose a beef enchilada and a tamale.

Our relatives ordered from the a la carte menu; carne asada burrito ($9.95) and cabrito Monterey ($12.75). For the burrito, the large flour tortilla was filled with filet of skirt steak, whole beans, onions and cilantro and topped with Mexican-style cheese and guacamole. Our relative, who recommended Todo Mexico because of the pico de gallo, heaped most of the remaining sauce on her burrito. She enjoyed her burrito as much as her friend did his baked lamb shank.

My friend and I noted that they were enjoying their dinner more than we were. We decided it was because our dinners were indistinguishable from any other Mexican restaurants’ prepared-ahead-and-microwaved-when-ordered plate. We were disappointed, while they left happy. Sure hope this dinner didn’t foretell how our Christmas presents will turn out.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.

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