For this lover of autumn, there’s a color to the season that represents it as clearly as a spot on the calendar.
It’s a soft, fuzzy gold – like glimmering waves of heat drifting up from a distant strip of blacktop – a gentle and alluring image that reflects the welcome pulling up on the hand-brake of summer’s wild ride.
For every one reason it’s sad to leave the sunny days behind, I’ll give you five for moving on, beginning with the brisk morning air, harvest moons and that first Octoberfest sausage on a whole wheat bun.
There’s now time to contemplate fireside chats, drives in the country and autumn picnics, which are of an entirely different style than their summer counterparts.
Indeed, through the summer, as long as the weather remains stunning, I’m content with a platter of grapes or fresh, juicy peach, alongside a simple chicken sandwich or chunk of cheese. But once autumn leaves begin to turn, so do my culinary desires for high-top pizzas, hearty hoagies and homemade soup.
Perhaps it’s just nature’s way of plumping us up for winter. But I’m a willing participant, especially when there are plenty of breathtaking views to take in along the way.
Life is a moveable feast. So dust off the picnic hamper. It’s time to hit the road.
* When the weather’s chilly, I prefer serving soups and stews in mugs, which help retain heat. My other preference is for real wine glasses, which seem to make the wine taste even better. Thus, I keep an “Autumn pack” fully loaded and ready to go with old mugs and wine glasses that I’m not emotionally attached to; an eclectic collection gathered from thrift shops that cost me only about 25 cents per piece. If they don’t survive the adventure, well, no loss.
* Because soup is always on my autumn picnic menu, I make sure I’ve got enough of it stowed away in the freezer for impromptu picnics throughout the fall and winter.
* Last stop as you head out of town? Well, since all of our fabulous local artisan breads are baked and delivered to markets in the morning, give yourself enough time to grab a loaf.
I love my pizza piled high with golden-sweet caramelized onions and lots of other goodies. As picnic fare, what could be better? Bake the night before your jaunt, chill, then wrap up tightly and take it along.
Pizza dough (purchase enough dough for a “large” pizza, unrolled, from your favorite pizzeria or well-stocked supermarket)
8tablespoons olive oil
2tablespoons butter
10yellow onions (about 31/2 pounds), thinly sliced
10cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
5bay leaves
2teaspoons light or dark brown sugar
1teaspoon salt
1teaspoon white pepper
2tablespoons dry white wine
2tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Cornmeal for the pan
1/2 cup of your favorite tomato-based pizza sauce (or jazz up an 8-ounce can of tomato sauce with 3 minced cloves of garlic, about 2 teaspoons of olive oil, some chopped basil, and pinch of salt)
1/3cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano leaves
1 1/2cups nicoise olives, pitted and sliced
Refrigerate the dough while you proceed with the recipe.
In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, combine 6 tablespoons of the olive oil and the butter. Add the onions, garlic and bay leaves, then sprinkle with the brown sugar, salt and white pepper, tossing gently to thoroughly coat the onions with the seasoning. Cover, reduce the heat to low and cook for about 20 minutes without stirring. Remove the lid, increase the temperature to medium-high and continue cooking and stirring for 15 minutes. For the final phase, increase the temperature to high and, stirring constantly, continue cooking until the onions are a rich golden brown. This will take about 10 more minutes (your total cooking tie will be about 45 minutes). Stir in the wine and vinegar, and deglaze the pan by stirring well to loosen any cooked-on bits from the bottom of the pan; set aside.
Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.
On a lightly floured work surface, pat and roll the dough to fit a 16-inch round pizza pan or a 16-by-12-inch baking sheet. Sprinkle the pan with a thin layer of cornmeal, then press the dough into the pan, rolling the edges slightly to create a rim. Brush the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the surface.
Spread or brush on the pizza sauce, then arrange the onions evenly over the dough. Sprinkle on the cheese and fresh herbs, then add the olives. Bake until the crust is a rich golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Can be eaten immediately, but it’s great as picnic fare; cut into pieces and let cool, then wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
Serves five or six.
Delicious as an entree, of course, but my favorite use for this excellent concoction is as picnic fare. Or cross-country-skiing fare. Or tailgate fare. Your food processor makes preparation a snap. And it can be done days in advance.
1large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
3tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2eggs
2tablespoons milk
2tablespoons sherry or brandy (or milk)
1tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1clove garlic, coarsely chopped
2teaspoons salt
1/4teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2cups fresh bread crumbs
1pound ground turkey breast
1pound ground pork
Place the onion, parsley, eggs, milk, brandy or sherry (or milk), Worcestershire sauce, garlic, salt and pepper in a food processor and blend for about 10 seconds, stopping once to scrape down the sides of the container. Add the bread crumbs and continue to puree until the mixture is very smooth. Transfer this mixture to a bowl and combine with the ground turkey breast and ground pork.
Pat the mixture into a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Cover the pan with foil, then place the pan on a baking sheet (to catch any drips during baking. Bake in a 350 degree oven for about 1 1/2 hours or until the juices run clear.
Remove the pan from the oven and let stand for at least 15 minutes before slicing. However, for outdoor fare, the terrine should be chilled first because this improves the flavor and firms up the texture for slicing into thin cuts.
For picnic sandwiches: This terrine is particularly wonderful with a bold-and-spicy whole-grained mustard, the crunch of a good garlic dill pickle and some sliced tomatoes, all either tucked into a whole-wheat pocket bread or nestled between two slices of a really good sourdough or whole-grained bread, slathered with mayonnaise and layered with a few crunchy sheets of lettuce.
Makes six to eight servings.
My most requested autumn picnic soup recipes. It’s delectable, hearty, rich and cheesy, so it really hits the spot on these brisk autumn afternoons and evenings. Its nose-warming nature really hits the spot when sitting out, enjoying the countryside this time of year.
1quart chicken broth (homemade or canned)
21/2pounds potatoes, unpeeled, coarsely chopped
2cups chopped green onions, whites and about half the green stalks
1quart light cream
1/4cup soy sauce
1teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
6ounces shredded Swiss cheese
6ounces shredded cheddar cheese
1/2cup beer (or dry white wine or dry sherry)
In a heavy-bottomed soup pot bring the chicken broth to a boil. Add the potatoes and simmer for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are very soft. Add the green onions and remove the pot from the heat. Add the half-and-half or milk to the pot.
Puree the potato-broth mixture in a blender or food processor (you will have to do this in batches; when blending, fill the container only half full and cover the lid with a dish towel because the soup “spurts” quite violently as it’s being blended). Return the puree to the pot. Stir in the soy sauce and pepper and slowly bring the soup back to a simmer.
Note: the soup can be prepared to this point up to 48 hours ahead and refrigerated, or prepared and frozen for 3 months.
When ready to serve or pack into a thermos, proceed with the recipe by placing the pot back on the burner, over medium heat. When the soup begins to simmer, stir in the grated cheeses gradually, a hand-full at a time. Now gently whisk in the wine, sherry or beer.
Makes eight servings.
Ham hocks are one of the true secret ingredients of cooking. They impart so much flavor and texture, and it’s amazing that they aren’t more widely used. Great split pea soup can be made without them, but incredible split pea soup is made possible by their inclusion.
18cups water
4cups (2 pounds) uncooked split peas, washed and checked for stones
2pounds smoked ham hocks
4tablespoons vegetable oil
1carrot, finely chopped
2onions, finely chopped
10cloves fresh garlic, peeled and minced
4bay leaves
1tablespoon dried marjoram (or 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh)
1tablespoon dried basil (or 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh)
1teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2teaspoons salt, or to taste (the ham hocks are salty, so salt judiciously)
In a heavy-bottomed soup pot, bring 10 cups of the water to a boil and add the split peas. Cover and simmer over low heat for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until the peas break down and dissolve. Stir the pot periodically to prevent sticking and burning. If the water seems to disappear add a little more, enough to cover the peas.
At the same time in a separate pot bring the remaining 8 cups water to a boil, add the ham hocks, cover and simmer for 2 hours. Strain the water and add it to the split peas after they have dissolved. Pick the meat off the hocks and discard the bones and fat. Chop the meat and add it to the split peas and water. Continue cooking over low heat.
While the peas and hocks are cooking, heat the oil in a frying pan and saute the carrot, onion and garlic until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves, marjoram and basil, stir for 1 more minute and remove the pot from the heat.
When the split peas have broken down, add the salt, pepper and carrot-onion mixture. The soup should be thick and creamy. Taste, adjust the seasonings and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. May be served immediately or prepared up to 2 days ahead, refrigerated and reheated.
Makes eight generous servings.
Adapted from “Sacramental Magic in a Small-Town Cafe,” by Brother Peter Reinhart
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.
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