Mash up a bowl of comfort – with cheese

  • By Ronnie Fein / Special to The Stamford Advocate
  • Tuesday, September 14, 2004 9:00pm
  • Life

Mashed potatoes are on almost everyone’s list of favorite comfort foods.

It is so much a part of American culture that endless recipes have been printed and famous TV chefs spend time showing viewers how to make it.

Actually, folks who love mashed potatoes are lucky. The recipe is amazingly easy.

We will tell you how to make perfect mashed potatoes. Because the dish is so versatile, we’ll also mention a few ways that you can build on the basic formula, and we’ll describe a recipe that begins with mashed potatoes but becomes a stunning brunch dish suitable for special company.

Obviously, good mashed potatoes need good potatoes: tubers that give their all to the cause. That means a moderately starchy variety that fluffs, but doesn’t become waterlogged when cooked.

Potatoes such as Yukon Gold are the best choices. Waxy varieties such as Red Bliss don’t contain much starch. You can mash them and they taste just fine, but they’ll be chewy and lumpy, not fluffy.

Some cooks swear by Russets (baking potatoes). But when you boil baking potatoes, they absorb too much water and when mashed, they come out soggy. You can however, make mashed potatoes with Russets if you bake the potato, remove and mash the flesh and serve it separately or inside the baked potato skin.

Be sure to cook the potatoes in lightly salted water. That helps cut down on salt needed later.

When the potatoes are tender, drain them but return them to the pot and put them over low heat for a few moments to rid them of excess moisture.

Then it’s time to mash. This is the part where too many mistakes are made.

Mashed potatoes need not be super-smooth. In fact, a little texture gives them a homemade-comfort feel. But even if you like mashed potatoes with a puddinglike consistency, use an old fashioned, hand-held potato masher or a tool called a ricer. Either of these will help you maintain control over the texture.

Potatoes have a high amount of gluten and can easily go from smooth to gummy if you overmix them. Forget the food processor or high-speed beater for this recipe.

There isn’t much you need to do to make mashed potatoes taste terrific. A lump of butter or spoonful of olive oil provides enrichment. Stir in some cream, milk, skim milk or buttermilk, depending on whether you’re counting calories. For a nondairy version, use stock.

All these liquids help make the dish lighter and fluffier. Taste the mixture for seasoning; add salt and pepper as needed.

That’s all there is to it. And you can make it a day or so ahead of when you need it for dinner. You can freeze mashed potatoes, too. Reheat the casserole in a preheated 350-degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes.

Mashed potatoes need nothing else, but sometimes we are greedy for more. People who love truly rich and creamy versions might want to beat in a bit of cream cheese and dairy sour cream, which also add a slightly tangy taste. If you’re a lighter eater, consider using olive oil and cottage cheese.

To vary the flavor, think about including raw or roasted garlic or herbs such as fresh chopped oregano, parsley or basil. Or try one of the old Irish favorites, combining mashed potatoes with cooked cabbage, kale, scallions or leeks.

Cheese aficionados sometimes mix in freshly grated cheddar or Parmesan, or crumbled blue cheese or goat cheese. We have included recipes for several of these variations.

If you have mashed potatoes left over, you can recycle them as potato cakes. Coat them in flour, then in beaten egg, then breadcrumbs; shape them into patties and fry them to a crisp in hot fat. This is a good side dish for roasted or grilled meat or poultry.

To make our brunch dish, mashed potato pancakes with smoked salmon and horseradish sauce, use leftover mashed potatoes or start from scratch and include the sauteed onions and chives called for in the recipe.

In either case, you can prepare the cakes ahead and rewarm them in a hot oven, then place them on top of the cool smoked salmon slices. Just before serving, cloak them with the horseradish sauce, which is creamy but pleasantly hot.

Rich mashed potatoes

1recipe mashed potatoes made with butter and milk, but reduce milk to 1/4 cup

4tablespoons cream cheese

1/2cup dairy sour cream

Prepare the mashed potatoes as indicated in the master recipe, but add the cream cheese in chunks and work into the potatoes with the butter. Add the sour cream and beat the mixture with a wooden spoon until the mixture is fluffy and well blended.

Low-fat mashed potatoes

1recipe mashed potatoes made with skim milk and no butter or olive oil

1cup low-fat cottage cheese

2-3tablespoons chopped fresh herbs such as chives, basil, oregano or parsley

6-8tablespoons nonfat plain yogurt, optional

Prepare the mashed potatoes as indicated in the master recipe, but do not use butter. Instead, stir in the cottage cheese and herbs after you have mashed the potatoes. Stir in yogurt, if desired, for a tangier taste and creamier texture.

Mashed potato pancakes with smoked salmon and horseradish sauce

1tablespoon butter

1medium onion, chopped

1recipe mashed potatoes, plain or rich

2tablespoon freshly minced parsley

2tablespoon minced chives

1egg

Salt and pepper

3/4cup plain bread crumbs, preferably “panko”

Vegetable oil for frying

1/2cup dairy sour cream

1tablespoon prepared white horseradish

1tablespoon lemon juice

2teaspoon milk

6ounces smoked salmon

Heat the butter in a saute pan over moderate heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the onion and cook for 5-6 minutes, or until lightly browned. Remove to a bowl and add the mashed potatoes, parsley, chives, egg and salt and pepper to taste.

Shape the mixture into 12 small cakes and dredge them in bread crumbs. Heat about 1/8 inch vegetable oil in a skillet and fry the cakes for 3-4 minutes per side over moderate heat, or until crispy. Drain on paper towels.

In a bowl, mix the sour cream, horseradish, lemon juice and milk. Set this sauce aside. Arrange the smoked salmon on 6 plates. Top with 2 mashed potato cakes. Drizzle with some of the sauce.

Makes 6 servings.

Basic mashed potatoes

2pounds boiling potatoes

Lightly salted water

4tablespoons butter or olive oil

1/2cup warm cream, milk, skim milk, buttermilk, chicken stock or vegetable stock

Salt and pepper

Peel and cut the potatoes into chunks. Place the potatoes in a saucepan and cover them with lightly salted water. Bring the water to a boil, lower the heat and cook the potatoes at a simmer for about 20 minutes or until they are fork tender. Drain the potatoes.

Return the potatoes to the pan and cook them briefly over low heat to rid them of excess moisture. Mash the potatoes with a masher or put them through a ricer and return them to the pan. Add the butter in chunks or pour in the olive oil, and stir to blend. Stir in the liquid. Taste the potatoes, and add salt and pepper to taste.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Garlic mashed potatoes

1recipe mashed potatoes

2large cloves garlic, peeled

Add the peeled garlic cloves to the potato cooking water and mash them with the potatoes when the potatoes are fork tender. Proceed with the remainder of the recipe.

Mediterranean-style mashed potatoes

1recipe garlic mashed potatoes made with olive oil

2tablespoons freshly minced basil

Add the basil with the olive oil. Proceed with the remainder of the recipe.

Irish-style mashed potatoes

1recipe mashed potatoes made with butter and milk or cream

6finely chopped scallions or the white part of 2 small leeks, chopped

1/4cup extra milk (3/4 cup in all)

Prepare the mashed potatoes as indicated in the master recipe, but cook the scallions or leeks with the milk for about 5 minutes, until they have softened.

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