Middle Europe in Mukilteo

MUKILTEO – A couple of years ago, a Herald reader sent me a note asking if I knew of any local places serving German cuisine. I sent an e-mail to my places-to-eat network, and the answer was “Regrettably, no.”

With the opening of Terezia’s European Deli and Bistro about six months ago, Snohomish County has dine-in or take-out German cuisine with a bit of Budapest for added flavor. The small bistro in the Albertson’s shopping center is owned by John and Elizabeth Munzka. John is usually behind the counter while Elizabeth does the cooking and baking.

The Saturday night my friend and I visited, John was “on his way,” according to Elizabeth, who was busy dishing up and serving the daily specials along with dessert and coffee.

Every day, she fixes two soups ($1.99 for a small) and two main dishes ($8.99 for a regular) plus salads and tempting desserts such as cream puffs, cheesecake and something called “apple linzer.”

The desserts, along with a selection of meats and cheeses, are displayed in the cases in front of the espresso machine. Next to these, daily specials wait in warming pans. Across from the meat and cheese is a rack of shelves filled with delights none of us pick up at the neighborhood chain grocery store. There are jars of pickled vegetables with sauerkraut, walnut preserves, chestnut paste or sour cherries, which Elizabeth uses to make her yummy sour cherry cake. (More on that in a minute.)

During our dinner, we shared the dining room with a trio and a single customer. But we didn’t feel like we were in a restaurant. Instead, it was as if we were having dinner in Elizabeth’s kitchen with the in-laws. She chatted with everyone, and readily explained the nightly specials when we had questions. There are only five tables and three stools under the counter, which adds to the cozy atmosphere.

The night specials for Saturday are Hungarian goulash or cauliflower soups, and chicken paprika or stuffed cabbage rolls. I was there for the Hungarian goulash and chicken paprika. For my friend, I ordered the other two specials despite his objections that it would be “too much food.” By the way, salad can be substituted for the soup with the main dish.

Elizabeth’s goulash is like vegetable beef soup with bow-tie pasta, only better, because of the made-fresh-daily taste and secret spices. My friend’s cauliflower soup was made with rough-cut cauliflower, carrots and celery and was seasoned with parsley, garlic, black pepper and salt. That’s it – simple and terrific.

My chicken paprika was exactly what I expected tender, slow-simmered chicken that fell from the bone in a sauce punctuated by hot Hungarian paprika. My friend’s cabbage rolls were made with steamed cabbage leaves that were stuffed with ground pork and rice. His cabbage rolls were served in the same paprika-laden sauce as my chicken.

Both of our main dishes were served with boiled potatoes, which were sprinkled with parsley and that secret flavoring we love in warm German potato salad. We both enjoyed every bite and were hesitant to share with one another because of the outstanding flavors and perfect combination.

It’s important to note that the portions are European in size. You won’t get half a chicken at this restaurant. This means you’ll have room for dessert ($2.25 to $3.25), such as almond or sour cherry cake. The daily selection remains in the hands of the baker, but these hands know what they’re doing.

My friend’s almond cake was multiple layers of fluffy white cake, almond paste and whipped cream, while mine substituted sour cherry filling for the almond paste. We added cups of freshly brewed coffee and enjoyed our last few minutes in Elizabeth’s kitchen.

Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.