If you’ve recently decided merlot is not for you, I have two recommendations: Taste more merlots and check out a new Web site called Merlot Fights Back (www.merlotfightsback.com).
The site, which features detailed information on soil, climate and other factors that affect the quality of merlot, is the leading edge of an ambitious campaign undertaken by Napa Valley’s Swanson Vineyards to bolster merlot’s flagging popularity. In addition to the Web site, Swanson winemaker Chris Phelps has embarked on a nine-city tour touting what he refers to as merlot’s “complex uniqueness.” The tour features tastings of not only the merlots that Swanson produces from its 50 acres of vineyards in Napa’s Oakville district, but also those of quality producers elsewhere in California and in Italy, France and South America.
“What we’re trying to show is that when merlot is planted in the right soils and climate, it’s one of the world’s great grape varieties,” Phelps said.
While conceding there are many insipid merlots, he blames not the grape but the red wine boom, which caused merlot to be planted in unsuitable places, sullying the reputation of all merlot. “I wonder if Miles” – the merlot-phobic character in the 2004 movie “Sideways” – “even realizes that the ‘61 Cheval Blanc he opened on his birthday was almost 50 percent merlot,” Phelps said.
The lovely Swanson 2002 Merlot ($30) is a prime example of merlot’s quality potential. Phelps’ training at Chateau Petrus in Pomerol comes through in the tight focus of the fruit and the weaving in of subtle cassis and mineral notes on the finish.
Swanson stands in good company. The following merlots are highly recommended based on the combination of quality and value. Prices are approximate.
Beringer 2003 Merlot “Napa Valley” ($19; California): This sumptuous merlot is a knockout. Vigorously fruity with warm, ripe tannins, it has the power and concentration to embarrass most cabernet sauvignons. Match with grilled steak.
J. Lohr Estates 2002 Merlot “Los Osos” ($16; California): Deep purple in color, this merlot from the Paso Robles region of California serves up a powerful bouquet of toasty vanilla, cassis and blackberries, followed on the palate by ripe, fleshy fruit. This deserves prime lamb chops (limited supply).
Chateau Lauriol 2003 Bordeaux ($12; France): The second wine of the respected Chateau Puygueraud in the Cote de Francs region of Bordeaux, this has an intriguing nose of spice and light cedar, followed on the palate by polished flavors of berry and cassis. Much class for the price.
Domaine de Montpezat 2003 Merlot “Les Enclos” ($12; France): Offering a full quotient of rustic charm for which the wines of the southern French region of the Languedoc are justly famous, the generous red and black fruit flavors of this wine are tailor-made for grilled red meats.
Kendall-Jackson 2003 Grand Reserve Merlot ($25; California): Grand Reserve Merlot comes primarily from Kendall-Jackson’s premium hillside vineyards in Sonoma. The red berry fruit is lush and layered, with a finishing sheen of vanilla from aging in new oak barrels. Medium in body, it will match well with poultry and salmon but has sufficient structure to handle red meat.
Tortoise Creek 2005 Merlot ($8 to $9; France): Although this is from the small village of St.-Chinian in the Languedoc, it has the pure berrylike fruitiness and complexity of a young petite chateau from the St.-Emilion region of Bordeaux. Its bright fruitiness makes it a superb aperitif red. Exceptional value.
Castillo de Monjardin 2002 Merlot Deyo ($22; Navarre, Spain): The French-influenced Navarre region enjoys a long history with merlot. This generously oaked wine offers layered fruit with a fresh bouquet of vanilla, bing cherries and cassis.
Domaine de St. Antoine 2004 Merlot ($10; France): This youthful wine from the Costieres de Nimes region of southern France offers exuberant fruit, moderate tannins and notes of Provencal herbs in a pleasing, drink-now style.
American Winetasters Society 2003 Merlot “Stags Leap District” ($16; Napa): This is blended from the overproduction of several respected wineries in the prestigious Stags Leap district of Napa, and displays a violet scented bouquet, followed by silky fruit on the palate. Light to medium-bodied, it matches best with veal, duck or roast chicken.
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
