Never tried making risotto? Get a pot and start stirring

There’s a magical moment during the making of risotto which grabs hold of you when you notice it taking place: About 16 minutes into the stirring, after half of the liquid has been absorbed by the swelling grains of rice, the rice sheds its outer coating of starch, and suddenly the dish transforms from a simple mixture of rice and broth into a creamy, velvety symphony of sauce and substance.

You’ve got to believe me.

Even after a 10-hour day at the salt mines, those captivated by risotto will kick off their shoes, park themselves in front of a stove sipping a pertinent Chardonnay, and let a week’s worth of frustrations be whisked away in the time it takes a cup of short-grain rice to turn into dinner.

Clearly, the rice is the most crucial ingredient of any true and successful risotto. Arborio, Arborio Superfino, Vialone and Carnaroli rice all are blessed with the ability to absorb a large quantity of liquid without turning to mush.

However, I’ve also had grand success with a simple California Pearl rice, which leans more toward the medium grain varieties.

The supporting cast of ingredients which you add to risotto — the "condimenti" — is also a major part of the production, and the reason risotto is as versatile as pasta. Hundreds of recipes for risotto abound, calling for a plethora of tasty elements ranging from lobster, shrimp or chicken to pesto, peas or zucchini.

If you’ve never given risotto a try, the following tips might also help:

Make sure that the pot you use is heavy-bottomed for stability and even heating.

Don’t rinse your rice before cooking, since that dusting of starch contributes to the ultimate creaminess of the risotto.

By adding the hot broth in small doses, you’re managing the temperature of the rice, which is important, because if the rice cooks too quickly, it will be soft outside but chalky inside; and if it cooks too slowly, the risotto will turn out too gluey.

When’s your batch of risotto done? Well, most recipes tell you to begin testing the grains after about 15 minutes. But in the words of Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins, in their "The New Basics Cookbook," risotto is done "when you like it."

Traditionally, risotto is served straight from the pot, while it’s still very hot. Some cooks will mound it in the center of a wide, deep bowl, then diners can begin carving away at it from the outer edge, working their way inward. The risotto toward the center will remain nice and warm until it’s served.

The two recipes below are basic yet flavorful. If you’ve never tried making risotto, this would be a good place to get your feet wet. But don’t be afraid of letting your creative nature take over.

The first recipe is a great way to use up the last of your summer tomatoes.

As the author, Caprial Pence, says, don’t let the roasted tomato concept scare you into thinking that the dish takes too long to prepare. The tomatoes can be roasted up to a week ahead, and they take a minimal amount of fuss and preparation.

You’ll want to prepare the risotto just before serving, but you can always recruit a guest to give you a hand with the stirring.

Risotto with oven-roasted tomatoes

To roast the tomatoes: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Toss the tomatoes with the garlic and about 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a baking dish. Bake until the tomatoes are very brown, about 40 minutes. Let cool for about 10 minutes. Coarsely chop the tomatoes, reserving them with all the cooking liquid and garlic; set aside. (The tomatoes can be prepared in advance and kept refrigerated for up to 1 week.)

To prepare the risotto: Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saucepan over high heat until very hot. Add the shallots and saute for 2 minutes. Add the rice and saute for about 2 minutes, or until the grains begin to turn opaque. Add enough hot broth to just cover the rice, about 2 cups, and cook, stirring constantly, until the broth has been absorbed. Continue until all of the broth has been absorbed but the rice is still firm. Add the reserved tomatoes, cooking liquid, and garlic, and cook, stirring continuously, until the rice is al dente. Mix in about 1/2 cup of the cheese and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve in individual pasta bowls with the remaining cheese sprinkled on top.

Makes four servings.

Adapted from "Caprial Cooks for Friends," by Caprial Pence.

Although this recipe calls for porcini mushrooms, any meaty mushroom can be substituted.