With the slumping dollar jacking up prices for Cote d’Or Burgundies, pinot noir lovers need some good news. And here it is: The flow of high-quality pinot from New Zealand has turned from a trickle to a torrent during the past few years, and the wines in this new wave are not only numerous but also remarkably consistent. New Zealand’s producers are now turning out scores of superb bottlings with a fresh, pure profile at prices that are often surprisingly affordable in the high-cost context of pinot noir.
To appreciate this Kiwi accomplishment fully, it is important to recognize that pinot noir is difficult to grow and craft into fine wine. The pinot grape’s thin skin leaves it vulnerable to a whole slew of maladies in the vineyard. Once in the winery, it must be lavished with careful attention, as pinot’s extremely delicate juice will reveal many little winemaking flaws that would be undetectable in a big, robust cabernet.
Despite the fact that most New Zealand pinots are made with fruit from young vines, almost all the renditions available here are generously endowed with substance and flavor. Although they’re not (yet) as complex aromatically as Cote d’Or Burgundies, they show far more tenderness and purity on a dollar-for-dollar basis and are much more consistent. They are also more delicate and less overtly sweet than California pinots and are more attractively priced than qualitatively comparable pinots from Oregon.
Top performers from recent tastings are recommended below in order of preference, with regions of origin and approximate prices. (Local pinot noir fans may need to research area wine specialty shops, including Seattle, to find some of these.)
Outstanding
Ata Rangi Martinborough 2001 ($45): Complete and convincing in every respect, this lovely wine shows tender fruit with ample flavor but impressive delicacy and restraint. Well-measured oak lends accents of spices and smoke, and all the major flavor components are well integrated.
Escarpment Martinborough 2002 ($45): Impressively concentrated and flavorful, this wine is hardly shy. Yet, despite the ripeness indicated by its 14.5 percent alcohol, it shows an uncanny freshness and brightness. Pure and well balanced, this is skillfully made.
Voss Estate Martinborough 2002 ($43): Seamless and impressively symmetrical, this gorgeous wine features complex aromas, deeply flavored fruit, well-measured wood and a very persistent finish.
Alana Estate Martinborough 2000 ($22): Surely among the best pinots available from anywhere at this price, it is still young enough to show primary fruit notes of cherries and strawberries, but also mature enough to include interesting notes that suggest wild mushrooms and damp earth.
Craggy Range Winery, Martinborough Te Muna Road Vineyard 2003 ($40): Amazingly integrated in light of its youth, this is full of flavor but still fresh and light, with a long, pure finish.
Schubert Wines, Wairarapa 2003 ($52): Impressively rich but not remotely heavy or obvious, this stunning newcomer is skillfully wrought.
Brancott Vineyards, Terraces Estate, Marlborough 2002 ($22): Substantial in weight but still lively and bright, this features delicious black-cherry fruit and soft, fine-grained tannins.
Very good
Seifried, Nelson 2002 ($25): Pure and detailed, with solid fruit and balanced oak.
Martinborough Vineyard, Martinborough 2001 ($40): Pricey but complex and classically styled, with spice and smoke notes augmenting pure cherry fruit.
Nautilus Estate, Marlborough 2002 ($20): Juicy and deep, with bracing from spicy oak.
Two Paddocks (Central Otago) 2001 ($44): Pure and deeply flavored, with excellent integration and balance.
Olssens Central Otago “Jackson Barry” 2003 ($29): Rich and broadly textured, with subtle oak and lovely spicy undertones.
Palliser Estate, Martinborough 2002 and 2003 ($27): Both vintages are well made, with the 2002 showing more complex aromatics but the 2003 a plusher fruit profile.
Also recommended
Seresin Marlborough 2002 ($45); Omaka Springs Marlborough “Winemaker’s Selection” 2002 ($22); Framingham Marlborough 2002 ($23); Highfield Marlborough 2001 ($29); Brancott Marlborough “Reserve” 2002 ($18); Rimu Grove Nelson 2003 ($30); Nobilo Marlborough “Icon” 2003 and 2002 ($20); Stoneleigh Marlborough 2003 ($16); Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough 2002 ($33); Twin Islands Marlborough 2003 ($14); Matua Valley Wairarapa 2002 ($20); Tohu Marlborough 2003 ($20); Lake Chalice Marlborough 2003 ($20); Spy Valley Marlborough 2001 ($40); Matua Valley Marlborough 2003 ($15).
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