Though expensive, riding a gondola at night is one of the great experiences in Europe. (Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli / Rick Steves’ Europe)

Though expensive, riding a gondola at night is one of the great experiences in Europe. (Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli / Rick Steves’ Europe)

Once the sun goes down, Venice shines

Venice under a cloak of darkness has an extra dose of magic and mystery.

I love Venice at night, and recently, I was reminded why.

The evening started at one of my favorite Venice restaurants. The chef served up a seafood bounty from the lagoon, accompanied by deliciously grilled local vegetables and polenta. After dinner, twinkling from my sprightly Venetian white wine, I wandered through the tangle of back lanes, musty with history, pausing on lonely bridges to watch gondolas glide silently by. Finally, I turned the corner onto St. Mark’s Square — perhaps the most beloved square in all of Europe, where the age-old glories of Venice still swirl. The lights were on, and the arrival of “aqua alta” (high water) had flooded the square, creating an array of reflections.

While Venice’s splendid decay is undeniably charming by day, it’s especially memorable after dark. Near the end of the day, the stifling crowds thin out as hordes of day tourists retreat to their cruise ships and mainland hotels. Then, as the sun goes down, a cool breeze blows in from the lagoon, the lanterns come on, the peeling plaster glows in the moonlight, and Venice resumes its position as Europe’s most romantic city.

Evenings are made for wandering. Even Venice’s dark and distant back lanes are considered very safe after nightfall. You can enjoy a slow dinner in a romantic canalside or piazza setting, or eat your way through a Venetian pub crawl.

This tradition is unique to Venice — where no cars means easy crawling — and is known as a “giro d’ombra.” “Giro” means stroll, and “ombra” (slang for a glass of wine) means shade, from the old days when a portable wine bar scooted with the shadow of the Campanile bell tower across St. Mark’s Square.

Venice’s residential back streets hide plenty of characteristic bars (“bacari”), serving trays of interesting toothpick-munchies called “cicchetti” — deep-fried mozzarella, calamari, artichoke hearts, crostini with various toppings, marinated seafood, prosciutto with melon and more. While you can order a plate of assorted appetizers, Venetians prefer going one-by-one, sipping their wine and trying this and that. Eating ugly things on toothpicks in a series of characteristic bars is one of my favorite Venice activities.

Since bars don’t stay open very late, and the “cicchetti” selection is best early, start your evening by 6 p.m. By 10 p.m., restaurants are winding down; by 11 p.m., many bars are closing; and by midnight, the city is shut tight.

Venice also has a busy schedule of events, church concerts, festivals and entertainment, including, of course, Carnevale, the yearly masquerade party. The free monthly “Un Ospite di Venezia” lists all the latest happenings (www.unospitedivenezia.it).

Especially popular are Baroque concerts, held at churches all over town. The concerts — sometimes performed by musicians in wigs and tights — generally focus on the music of Vivaldi, who, having been born in Venice, is as ubiquitous here as Strauss is in Vienna and Mozart is in Salzburg. The Interpreti Veneziani orchestra, considered the best group in town, generally performs concerts nightly inside the sumptuous San Vidal Church.

Opera is also popular in Venice, with venues like La Fenice (the grand old opera house). But even if you don’t appreciate opera, consider a performance at Musica a Palazzo. This evening of opera is a treat, as you’ll spend it under Tiepolo frescoes at a Venetian palace on the Grand Canal. Each act, performed by a small group of musicians, is set in a different lavish room.

For many travelers, the best entertainment is just being in St. Mark’s Square after dark, as dueling cafe orchestras entertain. Every night, enthusiastic musicians play the same songs, creating the same irresistible magic. The ultimate music scene is at the venerable Caffe Florian. The price to sit outside and sip an espresso is not cheap (at least 15 euros), but if you stay a while, this is money well spent. A cheaper option is Gran Caffe Chioggia, which doesn’t charge extra for music and has good jazz nightly.

Of course, the ultimate after-dark activity in Venice is a gondola glide through the canals. This experience just about defines the word “romantic,” and you see details of the city that mere pedestrians miss. Gondola prices go up at night, but it’s worth it.

Venice under a cloak of darkness has an extra dose of magic and mystery — the ambience that has attracted visitors since the days of Casanova.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Life

Sarah Jean Muncey-Gordon puts on some BITCHSTIX lip oil at Bandbox Beauty Supply on Tuesday, Jan. 9, 2024, in Langley, Washington. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)
Bandbox Beauty was made for Whidbey Island locals, by an island local

Founder Sarah Muncey-Gordon said Langley is in a renaissance, and she’s proud to be a part of it.

A stroll on Rome's ancient Appian Way is a kind of time travel. (Cameron Hewitt)
Rick Steves on the Appian Way, Rome’s ancient superhighway

Twenty-nine highways fanned out from Rome, but this one was the first and remains the most legendary.

Byrds co-founder Roger McGuinn, seen here in 2013, will perform April 20 in Edmonds. (Associated Press)
Music, theater and more: What’s happening in Snohomish County

R0ck ‘n’ Roll Hall of Famer Roger McGuinn, frontman of The Byrds, plans a gig in Edmonds in April.

Mother giving in to the manipulation her daughter fake crying for candy
Can children be bribed into good behavior?

Only in the short term. What we want to do is promote good habits over the course of the child’s life.

Speech Bubble Puzzle and Discussion
When conflict flares, keep calm and stand your ground

Most adults don’t like dissension. They avoid it, try to get around it, under it, or over it.

The colorful Nyhavn neighborhood is the place to moor on a sunny day in Copenhagen. (Cameron Hewitt)
Rick Steves: Embrace hygge and save cash in Copenhagen

Where else would Hans Christian Andersen, a mermaid statue and lovingly decorated open-face sandwiches be the icons of a major capital?

Last Call is a festured artist at the 2024 DeMiero Jazz Festival: in Edmonds. (Photo provided by DeMiero Jazz Festival)
Music, theater and more: What’s happening in Snohomish County

Jazz ensemble Last Call is one of the featured artists at the DeMiero Jazz Festival on March 7-9 in Edmonds.

Kim Helleren
Local children’s author to read at Edmonds Bookshop

Kim Helleren will read from one of her books for kids at the next monthly Story Time at Edmonds Bookshop on March 29.

Chris Elliott
Lyft surprises traveler with a $150 cleaning charge

Jared Hakimi finds a $150 charge on his credit card after a Lyft ride. Is that allowed? And will the charge stick?

Inside Elle Marie Hair Studio in Smokey Point. (Provided by Acacia Delzer)
The best hair salon in Snohomish County

You voted, we tallied. Here are the results.

The 2024 Kia EV9 electric SUV has room for up to six or seven passengers, depending on seat configuration. (Photo provided by Kia)
Kia’s all-new EV9 electric SUV occupies rarified air

Roomy three-row electric SUVs priced below 60 grand are scarce.

2023 Toyota RAV4 Prime XSE Premium AWD (Photo provided by Toyota)
2023 Toyota RAV4 Prime XSE Premium AWD

The compact SUV electric vehicle offers customers the ultimate flexibility for getting around town in zero emission EV mode or road-tripping in hybrid mode with a range of 440 miles and 42 mile per gallon fuel economy.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.