In the spirit of “Eat your fruits and vegetables,” why not have a pear or two?
Since Washington and Oregon grow about 1.8 billion of them a year, there are plenty to go around. Indeed, the Northwest boasts 1,600 pear growers who produce 84 percent of the nation’s fresh pears.
This juicy Northwest commodity was launched in the 1800s by the pioneers, who brought root stock with them on their journey west. Pear orchards popped up all over the place and thrived.
Today, Washington and Oregon rank first and third, respectively, in the United States for overall production.
These pear orchards are as specialized as the regions that support them. Organic, commercial and multi-generation family orchards all contribute high-quality fruit to the Northwest’s fresh pear industry. And we, as Northwest consumers, are at the center of it all. So there’s no excuse to miss the tasty experience provided by this elegant and versatile crop.
Even now – when it’s challenging to fulfill our fruit hankerings with regional bounty – there’s always the pear. From Anjou and Bosc to Comice and Seckel, they’re at the peak of their availability.
Northwest pears, which are harvested from late summer into late autumn, actually develop better flavor and texture when ripened off the tree. Hence, they’re picked while still firm, stored under controlled conditions then allowed to ripen on demand.
To ripen
Depending on how long they have been out of cold storage, pears will ripen in as few as three days or take as long as seven days.
To ripen pears, allow them to stand at room temperature for several days in a bag or carton that’s large enough to allow for air circulation. The fruit will generate a ripening atmosphere in this circumstance.
Check the pears each day for ripeness. Placing pears near other ethylene-producing fruit such as bananas or citrus fruit can help speed the ripening process. Once pears are ripe, you can put them back into a cool place to slow further ripening until you are ready to use the fruit.
Red and yellow Bartletts will show an obvious color change as they ripen. However, Anjou, Bosc, Comice, Seckel and Forelle show little to no color change as they ripen, so color change is not an indication of ripeness.
Pears ripen from the inside out, so make sure you “check the neck” for ripeness. When the flesh yields to gentle thumb pressure applied near the neck, or stem end, the pear is ripe and will be at its sweetest and most juicy.
Don’t rely on the girth (tummy) of a pear as an indicator of ripeness – a soft middle means an overripe pear. Use overripe pears in smoothies, soups, sauces and purees.
Pairing pears
For a winter eating experience, consider approaching the subject from a more sophisticated point of view. Since adulthood, I’ve been intrigued by the concept of pairing wine with cheese and fruit. So are the folks at the Pear Bureau Northwest.
They challenged Portland, Ore., chef Caprial Pence to provide pear lovers with some guidelines to bring together pears with specific cheeses and wines. I’ve included her list, followed by additional suggestions from the pear people. If you take the time to read through it, you’ll gain a greater appreciation for the wide variation in flavor and texture each variety of pear brings to the table.
Then I hope you’ll jump right in and do some tasting of your own. The pear folks are making it even easier for you with a special offer: If you send them a receipt from your purchase of Northwest pears, they’ll send you a Northwest Pear, Cheese and Wine selector wheel. It’s a fun little gizmo; dial in a specific pear variety, (such as Comice, for instance), and the wheel automatically aligns itself with recommended cheeses (aged goat cheese or brie) and wines (chardonnay and Riesling). To obtain one, send the receipt, along with your name and address to:
Pear Cheese Wine Selector, Pear Bureau Northwest; 4382 SE International Way, Suite A; Milwaukie, OR 97222.
For additional information and recipes, go to www.usapears.com.
Great pairings
Here are five wine-cheese-pear selections from Pence:
1. Anjou, soft goat cheese, sauvignon blanc
Anjou pears are sweet and juicy when fully ripe, with excellent pear aroma.
Soft mild goat cheese (Montrachet style) is creamy with a slightly chalky texture and a clean, tangy finish; very mild in flavor. This cheese will not overpower the mild Anjou flavor, and the nice tangy finish complements the pear’s sweetness.
Sauvignon blanc has a clean herbal flavor with grapefruit and citrus notes and a clean, crisp finish. The citrus notes complement the pear’s sweet flavor and the creamy cheese texture without overwhelming the palate.
2. Bosc, aged white cheddar, cabernet sauvignon
Bosc is a pear with dense flesh and a nutty, spicy flavor. Mildly sweet, this savory pear is often used in cooking.
Aged white cheddar cheese has a bold, nutty flavor, a grainy, almost chalky texture, and a tangy finish. With its denser flesh and more savory flavor, the Bosc can stand up to the intense cheddar. The spicy-sweet pear flavor contrasts nicely with the cheese’s tangy finish.
Cabernet sauvignon is a bold wine with assertive fruit that contrasts with the aged cheddar and complements the sturdier flavor of the Bosc
3. Bartlett, St. Andre, brut champagne
Bartletts are aromatic juicy pears with a smooth texture.
St. Andre cheese is a triple cream cheese that is smooth and buttery – a nice complement to the sweet, juicy Bartlett. The subtle cheese flavor is ideal next to the aromatic pear.
Brut champagne is dry, with a toasty, almost nutty flavor. It contrasts nicely with the richness of the cheese and the sweet flavor of the pear, without asserting itself so much that the other flavors are lost.
4. Comice, Stilton, ruby port
Comice is the sweetest of all pears and a bit heavier in texture. It’s an especially good dessert pear with full-bodied flavor.
Stilton is a very strong blue cheese with a salty, slightly chalky or grainy texture. This cheese will contrast nicely with the sweet and strong pear flavors.
Ruby port is a rich wine with ripe berry flavors that partner wonderfully with the sweeter pear. The port’s rich body contrasts with the texture of the blue cheese.
5. Forelle, port salut, dry Riesling
Forelle pears are small but juicy with a mild, sweet flavor. Even when ripe, the pears keep a crisp texture.
Port Salut is a semisoft cheese with a mild, nutty flavor and a creamy texture – a nice complement to the pear’s juicy flavor and crisp texture.
Dry Riesling is a fruity wine that blends well with the mild pear flavor and the nutty flavors of the cheese.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.
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