Pepper: The spice that shaped the history of the world

Pepper and salt have been partners for so long that hardly anyone questions how they happened to form such a lasting relationship.

The matchup began in the days when salting was the only way to preserve meat and fish. Pepper was added before eating, to make the salty food more palatable. Sailors who lived for months at a time on salted meat always carried pepper with them.

But long before meeting salt, pepper had a distinguished history in its own right, said Dave DeWitt, co-author with Nancy Gerlach of “The Spicy Food Lover’s Bible” ($29.95).

Mix peppers: Grind together black, white and pink peppercorns with coriander seeds to add new dimensions to smoked meats and fish and vegetables. * Sauces: Green peppercorns are often combined with liquor such as bourbon and meat stock to make a sauce that is served over grilled lamb or veal chops. They are also used in salad dressings and soups. * Baking: Most bakers prefer white pepper, which is more subtle when used in cakes, muffins and focaccia. Other baked goods that benefit from using white (and, in some cases, black) pepper include pastries, tart shells, vegetable breads such as pumpkin or zucchini, carrot cake, biscuits and cookies.

DeWitt, who lives in Albuquerque, N.M., is a writer whose specialty is fiery food. In a phone interview, he said he became fascinated with black pepper while researching the book.

The book is about many spices, but according to DeWitt, going back to biblical times “the story of the spice trade is essentially the story of the pepper trade,” and it’s been said that no other spice has had a greater effect on world history than pepper.

Pepper from India was used medicinally by the ancient Greeks, and was enormously popular in ancient Rome.

“Sprinkle with pepper and serve” is the last step in a recipe for diced pork and apples from the world’s oldest surviving cookbook, “De Re Coquinaria” (On Cookery), DeWitt writes.

The pepper trade is mentioned in English laws dating from 978-1016. Pepper was so valuable that guards on London docks had their pockets sewn shut to prevent them from stealing peppercorns, and pepper became a major currency, accepted in many 11th-century towns as payment for taxes, DeWitt said.

With peppercorns literally worth their weight in gold, “explorers such as Columbus, Magellan and Vasco de Gama searched for them as they would for any treasure. Thus pepper stimulated the Europeans’ exploration of the world. Of course, Columbus did not find black pepper, but rather chili peppers, which he misnamed,” DeWitt writes.

Soon after the introduction of the spice to what is now the United States, Salem, Mass., became the pepper capital of the New World. In 1790 it was the nation’s sixth largest city and the richest per capita. About 8 million pounds a year of the spice passed through New England to other countries aboard hundreds of fast clipper ships built exclusively for the pepper trade.

“Salem was the transshipment point,” DeWitt said, “an aspect of the very fast schooners.” Between 1795 and 1873, these clipper ships made nearly a thousand trips, each 24,000 miles, to Sumatra and back.

Today Vietnam is the world’s largest pepper exporter and the second largest producer after India. The United States remains the major importer, followed by Europe, Japan and North Africa.

In previous books, DeWitt has focused on chili pepper, of which he became such an aficionado that he founded Chile Pepper magazine and later Fiery Foods magazine.

While black pepper hasn’t got the intense heat of chili pepper, it is pungent and flavorful with a distinct aroma.

It is also one of the most universally used flavoring agents: It’s found in a wide range of foods from processed meats to crackers, liquor and salad dressings. Pepper has long been used to ease ailments from headaches to asthma; today medical researchers are looking at piperine, the alkaloid in pepper, as a possible agent in anti-inflammatory and anti-convulsant drugs.

In “The Spicy Food Lovers Bible,” DeWitt writes that peppercorns are picked green, just as they are turning red. Then they are fermented and sun-dried until they become wrinkled and black. White pepper is made by submerging fresh peppercorns in water for several days to soften the outer skin so it can be rubbed off.

There are several types of peppers.

“Tellicherry (from India) is one of the most popular,” DeWitt said. “This is good for basic use.”

The best way to use pepper is to buy it whole and grind it yourself, he said. When you are buying whole black pepper, look for unbroken, uniform, debris-free peppercorns. Go for the largest, freshest, most full-scented pepper, although some, like Tellicherry, are so subtle that the aroma is not apparent until the peppercorns are cracked.

“When pepper is ground, it oxidizes and loses its oils. It has no pungency,” DeWitt said. “If you buy ground pepper always look for the sell-by date.”

As for pepper grinders, according to DeWitt the best have a ceramic grinding surface and a grind adjustment so you can choose to grind fine or coarse pepper.

“Wood absorbs oils,” he said.

He says his favorite grinder is a hefty one made of hard plastic and easy to fill, priced around $50.

“It has a sleeve with a large hole, with a set screw on the bottom to adjust the grind.”

His advice is to always store pepper in airtight glass (not plastic) containers, filling them up so there’s no air inside, and sealing tightly. Keep containers out of direct light and away from any moisture source. Black peppercorns will last indefinitely when properly stored.

“You can freeze them. This prevents any oxidation,” DeWitt said.

He suggests triple-bagging peppercorns if you freeze them.

The shelf life of white pepper and coarsely ground black pepper is about a year. Green peppercorns packed in vinegar or brine will last about a month in the refrigerator, while water-packed ones should be used within a week. “Cracked” peppercorn is the most coarsely ground, DeWitt said, and “fine shaker” the finest. The coarser the grind, the longer ground pepper will last.

DeWitt says his favorite way to use black pepper is in steak poivre (poivre is the French for pepper).

“When grilling, I like really good sirloin steak. I use three peppers: green, white, and black in a coarse grind. I press the pepper into the steak and just grill.”

1/2pound dried spaghetti

2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2cloves garlic, sliced

2tablespoons butter

1tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1-2cups grated pecorino Romano cheese

Salt to taste

In a large saucepan or stockpot, bring 4 quarts salted water to a boil, add the spaghetti, and cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve at least 1 cup of the cooking liquid, then drain the pasta, but do not rinse it.

Heat a small skillet over medium heat, add the olive oil, and when hot, add the garlic and saute until golden, but not brown. Remove the garlic, as it will continue to cook and burn. Add the butter and pepper to the pan.

Return 1/2 to 1 cup of the cooking water to the saucepan, add the olive oil mixture and 1 cup of the cheese, stir, and heat over medium heat. Add the pasta, and toss for about 3 minutes, until the cheese melts and the sauce coats the pasta, adding more reserved cooking liquid if dry. Taste and season with salt.

Place the pasta in a large bowl, top with the reserved garlic, and serve with extra cheese on the side, if desired.

Makes 2 servings as an entree, 4 as a first course.

This is a quick, easy-to-prepare mustard with a distinctive peppercorn flavor that’s excellent on dark breads and with smoked meats, and makes a perfect coating for steaks or burgers before grilling. Add a little of this mustard to beef gravy for an added flavor dimension, DeWitt said.

1/4cup whole yellow mustard seeds

1/4cup champagne vinegar

1/4cup hot water

2tablespoons coarsely cracked black peppercorns

1teaspoon garlic powder

1/2teaspoon salt

Place the mustard seeds in a spice mill or coffee grinder and process until finely ground. Combine the mustard and vinegar in a bowl and stir to mix. Allow the mixture to sit for 15 minutes. Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Spoon the mustard into a sterilized jar, cover, and refrigerate for 1 week before using. Mustard will keep in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 6 months after opening.

Makes 1/2 cup.

This recipe is for a margarita that you eat with a spoon, not drink, DeWitt said.

If you don’t like to use alcohol, you can simply leave the tequila out of the recipe. The flavor will be different, but still tasty.

4cups sliced strawberries

1/3cup orange juice, preferably fresh

1/4cup tequila (optional)

2tablespoons lime juice, preferably fresh

1-1 1/2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar, to taste

1 1/2teaspoons freshly ground coarse black pepper

Sugar to taste

Lime slices for garnish

Combine the strawberries, orange juice, tequila, if using, lime juice and vinegar (to taste), and toss to coat. Add the pepper and toss again.

For a dramatic presentation, serve in margarita glasses; rub the rims of the glasses with lime juice and dip them into the sugar. Divide the strawberries among the glasses, sprinkle a little sugar over the berries, garnish with limes slices, and serve.