Planting an asparagus patch can bring you years of bounty

Growing up, I always heard about Aunt Judy Kostyra’s family farm in Michigan — a property in faraway Kalamazoo, famous for its asparagus. At that time I had never seen an asparagus farm, but I could imagine the wide rows, with thousands of fat asparagus spears poking up through the soil, ready to be harvested, packed and shipped.

When I finally had my own garden, in Westport, Conn., one of the first things I planted was an asparagus patch. I planted the asparagus, which were shipped as “crowns,” or bare root plants, in deep trenches. (Trenches should be about 18 inches deep and 12 inches wide, with soil mounded in the bottom about 5 inches.)

I followed the grower’s instructions exactly so that my patch would be exemplary and productive.

I chose a very sunny spot to plant them (asparagus need seven to eight hours of sun a day), in an area where the soil was well drained and rich in nutrients. It is also very important to plant in soil that has a pH of about 7.

In just three years, I was utterly delighted that I had enough asparagus to serve our family of three every day for almost a month. I made asparagus soup, a Chinese stir-fry with fermented black beans and asparagus hollandaise — my favorite to this day.

I try to grow all my vegetables in a pesticide-free and organic manner. Once the soil’s pH has been tested and it has been amended for nutrients, I do no chemical fertilizing or spraying. But I do apply compost and peat moss and well-rotted manure to the beds each year.

Once picking season is over, after four weeks, I allow the “ferns” to grow high and thick — these beautiful ferns enrich the roots for the next season’s growth.

In late autumn, the ferns, once softened and ripened by frost, can be cut off at ground level, leaving a clean bed for the following spring. I encourage everyone to plant a few crowns and establish an asparagus garden; it will provide pleasure for years.

This recipe for brioche French toast is topped with pieces of roasted asparagus, an easy technique that intensifies the fresh flavor of the vegetable.

Brioche French toast with asparagus and orange beurre blanc

For the orange beurre blanc:

1 1/2 cups dry white wine

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice (from 2 oranges)

2 small shallots, thinly sliced

1/2 cup heavy cream

6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

For the asparagus:

1 pound asparagus, cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

For the French toast:

4 large eggs

1 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

4 1-inch-thick brioche slices

1 1/2 ounces (3 tablespoons) unsalted butter

Make the orange beurre blanc: Bring wine, 1/2 cup orange juice and the shallots to a boil in a large skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced to 3 tablespoons, about 10 minutes. Whisk in cream, and cook until reduced by three-quarters, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Add butter, 1 piece at a time, whisking after each addition. Strain into a heatproof bowl and add remaining 2 tablespoons orange juice and the zest. Season with salt and pepper. Thin with water if too thick. Cover to keep warm.

Make the asparagus: Preheat oven to 475 degrees. Toss asparagus and oil on a rimmed baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Roast until golden, about 8 minutes.

Make the French toast: Whisk together eggs, cream, zest, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Pour mixture into a 9-inch-by-13-inch baking dish, add brioche and soak, 2 minutes per side. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling. Add brioche, and cook on 1 side until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Flip, and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes more. Top each slice with asparagus, and drizzle with orange beurre blanc. Serve with remaining beurre blanc. Makes 4 servings.

Questions should be addressed to Ask Martha, care of Letters Department, Martha Stewart Living, 11 W. 42nd St., New York, NY 10036. E-mail to mslletters@marthastewart.com.

&Copy; 2009 Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia Inc.