The rewards of knowing how to choose and prepare fresh fish are plentiful, and it’s easier than you may think. Selecting fish involves nothing more complicated than having a good eye (and nose).
All it takes to work with fish in the kitchen is knowing some basic techniques. Here’s a roundup of tips – and a recipe – that are sure to get you hooked.
What to look for
* Steaks and fillets that have plump, moist flesh that’s not discolored, dry or separating.
* Whole fish with red (not browning) gills, clear eyes, shiny skin and firm flesh.
* Whole fish, fillets or steaks that smell fresh, not fishy.
How to skin fillets
* With the narrow end of the fillet facing you, place a slicing knife between flesh and skin at a 15-degree angle; cut against skin.
* After skinning about an inch, firmly grasp skin, holding it with a paper towel if it’s slippery. Continue to skin fillet, keeping the angle of the knife steady.
How to debone cooked whole round fish
* Begin by cutting between head and body just until the knife touches the backbone. Make a similar cut at tail end. Insert knife at tail end; cut crosswise from backbone to belly cavity. With knife resting against backbone, cut up the length of the fish to the head.
* Insert two wide spatulas underneath flesh, on top of the backbone, and lift.
* Lift tail; remove backbone, leaving two fillets.
Roasted tilefish over potatoes
8tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for dish
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
16Kalamata olives, pitted
2pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled
2medium garlic cloves, minced
2tilefish (or halibut or snapper) fillets (12 ounces each)
1/4cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Sprinkle bottom of dish with salt and pepper; set aside. Finely chop 12 olives, and thinly slice remaining four; reserve separately.
Slice potatoes very thinly (about 1/16 inch thick) with a mandoline or sharp knife. Arrange a third of potatoes in buttered dish, overlapping slightly. Brush with melted butter; season with salt and pepper. Scatter one-third of the garlic and half of the chopped olives on top. Repeat process to make another layer. Top with remaining potatoes; brush with melted butter, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside remaining garlic and butter.
Tightly cover with foil. Roast until potatoes just begin to color, 16 to 18 minutes. Remove foil; roast until edges are pale golden, about 10 minutes more. Meanwhile, skin fillets if necessary; halve crosswise. Stir together reserved garlic and melted butter in a large dish. Dip fillets in mixture; season with salt and pepper.
As soon as potatoes come out of oven, place fillets on top. Roast until fillets are cooked through, about 10 minutes. Scatter olive slices and parsley on top. Makes four servings.
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